December 2007

What Color Is Your Parachute? Killing the Doubts 8comments

parachuteThis is the fourth part of The Simple Dollar Book Club reading of What Color Is Your Parachute?, a seminal guide to your career. These entries appear weekly, each Monday afternoon, and you’re invited to read along. This entry covers chapters ten, eleven, and twelve in the 2008 edition (earlier editions are roughly similar). If you didn’t participate from the start, feel free to jump back to the first part, the second part, or the third part.

Chapter 10: How to Start Your Own Business

This is a pretty basic primer on things to think about before you start a small business. The biggest one, and the one that presents a road block for many people, is the fact that most small businesses earn less than a full time job elsewhere - it takes a lot of drive to really make it succeed.

Bolles also makes a strong case for having a backup plan. What will you do if the business doesn’t take off and you desperately need personal income? In my mind, this is exactly what temp work is appropriate for. A temporary office job doing things like filing papers is the perfect thing to find if you’re trying to get a small business started but you need short-term income.

Bolles is also a big fan of finding a mentor and consistently tapping that mentor for ideas and help as you try to get things started. It’s sometimes hard to find a mentor - my best tactic has usually been to find someone who is in the same area that I’m trying to get started in, but separate enough that we won’t be competitors (they work in a different specific niche or in a different locale).

Honestly, though, this is the weakest part of the entire book. If you’re interested in starting your own business, you’re much better off jumping into materials specifically about entrepreneurship.

Chapter 11: Entering the World of 50+

Mostly, this is a short paean that no matter how old you are, the best thing you can do is stay active, mentally and physically and spiritually. I can’t agree more with this statement: I actively put money into retirement, not so that I can start sitting in my rocking chair and wait for death to claim me, but so I can spend the later years of my life tackling some new challenges, free of the bondage of a boss and a nine to five day.

Chapter 12: How to Get “Unstuck”

There comes a time in everyone’s life (and maybe more than once) where we find ourselves wondering why we’re stuck. Why can’t we make any forward progress? What’s stopping us from moving forward?

Bolles argues that this usually happens when we begin to realize that some sort of change is needed in our life, but we’re afraid to make that change. Quite often, if we’re making that realization, it’s a sure sign that we really do need to make the change, but we’re held into place by the parts of ourselves that resist change - the “safekeeping” parts of ourselves.

One sure sign of your “safekeeping” self is that you’re listing lots of reasions why you shouldn’t do something, even though when you concentrate on it, there are many positive and compelling reasons for doing it. To an extent, I find myself doing this whenever I look at a writing career.

The solutions? Realize that you’re doing it, start doing research on the changes that are needed, and listen to music, particularly classical music (for brain activity purposes - seriously). That last one seemed sort of crazy at first, but I thought about it - I tend to be creative when I’m listening to music, but I tend to do repetitive, ordered tasks much better when I’m not. There is a connection there.

Next week, we’re going to dig into the thirteenth chapter and do the infamous flower exercise. This appears on pages 239 to 250 in the 2008 edition - yes, only twelve pages in a week. That’s because the flower exercise is pretty intense - I plan to work through it next week, and I hope you’ll give it a shot, too.

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The Simple Dollar: Best of 2007 7comments

Over the first full year of The Simple Dollar’s existence, I’ve written a pile of articles, some good, some bad. I went through each month and tried to pick out the five best from that month to produce something of an anthology of 2007. Here they are, the best articles of the year.

January
+ 31 Days to Fix Your Finances
+ The FICO Battle: Ten Common Tactical Mistakes When Dealing With The Credit Score Blues
+ Review: Real Money
+ Emergency Funds: How and Why You Should Get Started Right Now
+ I Hate Leftovers: Fighting The Battle With Recycled Food … And Winning

February
+ The Art of the Thank You Note
+ 15 Things You Can Do Right Now to Help Your Career
+ Stay At Home Parenting: Is It Worth It?
+ Twenty Three Ways To Improve Your Finances This Weekend
+ “I’m Too Tired To Cook” - At-Home Dining Solutions For The Overworked Family

March
+ The Art of the Slow Cooker
+ How To Make Your Own Laundry Detergent - And Save Big Money
+ Eight Baby Items We Bought That Weren’t Worth The Money
+ Review: The Bogleheads’ Guide to Investing
+ Why Johnny Can Read: Simpson’s Paradox and the Greatly Exaggerated Death of American Public Education

April
+ Review: Rich Dad, Poor Dad
+ Charity: Why You Should Give Your Money Away
+ Ten Financial Reasons To Turn Off Your Television - And Ten Things To Replace It With
+ 15 Ways Department Stores Try To Trick You Into Spending More Than You Need To - And 10 Ways To Fight Back
+ The Economics of Speeding, or How I Got A Ticket This Morning

May
+ A Reader Runs In Place
+ 101 Goals in 1001 Days
+ Review: Never Eat Alone
+ Six Points of Advice If You’re considering Loaning Money to a Friend
+ The Furniture Dilemma

June
+ The Financial Implications of Living with Mom and Dad
+ Trimming The Fat: Forty Ways To Reduce Your Monthly Required Spending
+ I’m Making All The Right Moves, But I’m Still Unhappy
+ Interesting Insights Into Life Insurance From An Actuary - How He Would Buy Life Insurance
+ What Aspects Of Personal Finance Bring You Happiness?

July
+ One Thing You Can Do Today That Will Put You In Better Financial Shape Tomorrow
+ Review: Made to Stick
+ How to Get a Free iPhone
+ Renting to Get Richer?
+ How Much Cash Is Appropriate To Carry?

August
+ Ten Things Any College Student Can Do To Prepare For Success In Life
+ Losing a Friend Over Money
+ The New Person At Work Is Getting Paid More Than I Am! How Can I Handle It?
+ A Guide To Setting And Reaching A Net Worth Goal
+ The Stay At Home Parenting Question Hits Home - Hard

September
+ Making A Major Life Change: Is It Time For Kathy To Abandon The City?
+ Is The Value Menu Really A Value? Comparing The Homemade Double Cheeseburger To The McDonald’s $1 Version
+ When A Frugal Life And Social Gift-Giving Come Into Conflict
+ Seven Things I Thought About While Holding My Second Child For The First Time
+ Review: The First National Bank of Dad

October
+ Reflections on Your Money or Your Life
+ Developing a Financially Frugal Personal Health Plan
+ Ten Steps To Financial Success For A Minimum Wage Earner
+ The $21 Food Week: Is It Possible? Is It Healthy?
+ How Can A Frugal Person Buy Expensive Items? A Deeper Look At Frugality

November
+ Everything You Ever Really Needed to Know About Personal Finance on the Back of Five Business Cards
+ Homemade Bread: Cheap, Delicious, Healthy, and Easier Than You Think
+ Piecing Through A Major Life Decision
+ When All Hope Seems Lost…
+ The Top Ten Personal Finance Books I’ve Ever Read

December
+ The Meaning of It All
+ Is An All-Cash Lifestyle Useful For Kicking The Debt Habit?
+ Does Peer Pressure Keep Us From Succeeding?
+ Frugality and Socializing: Finding Potential Friends Who Are Not Consumerism-Oriented
+ Going Inside The Wall: What Are We Fighting For?

Review: Take Back Your Time 8comments

Each Sunday, The Simple Dollar reviews a personal finance or personal development book.

Over and over again, I’ve come to realize that most of the stress and money management problems that people have come down to one thing: a lack of time. It’s because of that realization that I’ve come to write somewhat regularly about time management and figuring out the cash value of your time.

Take Back Your Time is a collection of essays on the topic of battling overwork and time poverty in America. I picked it up mostly on the strength of some of the writers that have written things I’ve loved in the past: Vicki Robin contributes an essay (she co-wrote Your Money or Your Life, which I utterly loved) and Juliet Schor (who wrote two books I’ve loved and reviewed here on The Simple Dollar, Born to Buy and The Overspent American), and those two alone were enough to convince me to pick up the book and give it a read-through.

I’m glad I did. This was a really thought-provoking collection of writings on time poverty, from various angles on how strong of a force it is to ways to battle it in our own lives - and in society in general. Often, I’m annoyed by a collection of essays on the same topic when people just parrot the same material, but the writers here tackle the topic from enough different angles that the varying perspectives made it quite enjoyable. Let’s dig in and see what’s inside.

Browsing Through Take Back Your Time

This book contains thirty essays, broken up into ten separate groups.

Part One: Overwork in America
The book opens by making the case that overwork actually exists, starting off with a scathing fact-based piece from Juliet Schor, the author of The Overworked American. Statistically, it’s pretty obvious that on average, Americans work more today than they did thirty years ago, and it’s continually growing. The other essays in this section tackle specific aspects of this: Barbara Brandt argues that opportunities are reduced for the underemployed and unemployed and also examines the places where this time comes from (families and sleep); Joe Robinson looks at the lack of paid vacation time, especially compared to the rest of the world; and Lonnie Golden addresses forced overtime in its various forms, from requiring hourly workers to work extra hours or piling requirements on salaried workers and forcing them to expand their hours. The end conclusion? The workplace is eating up more and more of our time.

Part Two: Time is a Family Value
Time poverty affects children and pets, too. When parents and pet owners have more and more of their time drawn away to work, less and less time is spent at home caring for children and caring for pets - this time has to come from somewhere. Less time spent means a less healthy relationship with children and with pets. Even more, children themselves often feel the pinch of needing time management: overscheduled children, with school and a ton of after-school activities, often lack the time to explore new things for themselves, develop a sense of self, have relaxing free time, and simply be children. In a nutshell, time poverty is detrimental to children and pets as well as adults.

Part Three: The Cost to Civil Society
Civil society loses out as well. One of the things most of us cut out of our lives when we start to feel the pinch is volunteer work. If we’re working more hours and we still want to maintain some semblance of a normal life, it’s easy to toss out volunteering for charities. This trend has shown up in contributed volunteer hours to charity over the last few decades, which has gone down. Similarly, we don’t do as many civil things for others that we used to do, like helping out a neighbor in need. Even worse, our elevated stress levels have caused us to be less civil to others, evidenced through trends like road rage. Basically, time poverty has made us less civil to each other.

Part Four: Health Hazards
Time pressure also causes health concerns. We minimize or compress exercise, don’t eat well (fast food is quick, after all), don’t visit the doctor, and are often subjected to stress-related illnesses. The end result is that we wear down after living a time-compressed lifestyle, with negative personal health consequences.

Part Five: Environmental Consequences
There are also negative environmental consequences to time poverty. Quite often, it requires many of us to increase our environmental footprint. We buy more prepackaged items, increasing our waste output. We have to commute alone because of our intense hours, thus burning more fossil fuels. We speed, burning even more fossil fuels. Most of these actions add more stress to our lives, compounding the other problems discussed earlier. In the end, overwork damages the environment.

Part Six: Historical and Cultural Perspectives
Why do other societies outside of the United States - and even in the United States in the past - have fewer challenges with time poverty? There’s a lot of interesting discussion here, from differences in culture and religion to a desire to continually improve production in the United States. Most interesting: in the 1930s, Congress nearly passed the Black-Perkins bill, which would have mandated a thirty hour workweek. Can you even concieve of Congress passing such a bill today? The point is that the current standard of time poverty in the United States is the exception rather than the rule from a historical and global perspective.

Part Seven: Taking Back Your Time
Here, the book turns direction and begins to look at solutions, starting with your individual life. Vicki Robin starts it off, reiterating the concept of calculating the value of your time and the fulfillment curve as expressed in Your Money or Your Life - basically, a five page nutshell of the whole book. What’s the first step you can begin to take, though? Cecile Andrews offers it - cancel something. Find something in your life and just cancel it. Free up some time to breathe.

Part Eight: Workplace Solutions
Obviously, the biggest place to find solutions is in the workplace, and this section offers a bunch of different perspectives on it. Individually, one can simply put aside material needs and begin to look for lower paying and less time-demanding jobs, or perhaps investigate the idea of a sabbatical. Alternately, one can work to begin to facilitate greater changes in the workplace by demonstrating that jobs with less time pressure get done better, with higher quality for the time invested - in many cases, this would actually be better for business than trying to squeeze more and more hours out of a person.

Part Nine: Rethinking Patterns of Culture
My favorite essay in the entire book came in this section, where Anna Lappe argues quite well that our changing relationship with food is directly connected to time poverty. The rise of fast food is the result of people needing more time - they can get edible foods prepared for them very quickly at a relatively cheap price, and that’s good enough. But what’s lost in the process is the nutritional diversity and spiritual effects of food - a truly great meal offers nutritional value and spiritual value that can’t be recaptured at Mickey D’s, and time pressure is the cause. The solution? Try taking the time to make a quality homemade meal - a message that hits home with me. Another interesting argument appears here, one that argues that “super sizing” is the real opponent - large houses, large televisions, and large meals are large wastes of money when they leave us without the time to enjoy them.

Part Ten: Changing Public Policies
The book ends with discussion on how to change public policies in relation to time poverty and what individuals can do. There are a lot of potential options, but most of them require broad awareness and support, something which doesn’t exist right now. Thus, the book proposes that we engage in a “Take Back Your Time” Day each October 24, where we spend the day making others aware of the problem in any way we can, just to increase awareness of the problem itself and the potential solutions.

Buy or Don’t Buy?

I found Take Back Your Time, as a whole, to be very interesting. It offered a lot of food for thought, different perspectives, and some solutions. It occasionally veered into the area of “we need big societal changes to fix this,” which is a rather dangerous road to follow, but when it sticks to identifying the problems themselves and providing individual solutions to the problem, Take Back Your Time really shines.

This is a great book to share with others, but it’s not one that I plan on returning to as a reference source. That’s true with most books of essays - you read them once and, if the essays are good, you share it - otherwise, why bother?

Thus, if you are interested in the topics presented here and know of some people you’d like to share it with, buy this book and pass it around. Otherwise, I recommend checking it out from your local library, but either way, it’s well worth reading for almost anyone engaged in Western society, particularly in the United States.

How to Define and Stick To a Successful New Year’s Resolution, Financial or Otherwise 10comments

Almost every year, I define a handful of New Year’s resolutions for myself, as do many people around the world. The new year provides a proverbial “clean slate” - the turning of the calendar year provides a very clear psychological place with which to work on life changes we’d like to make.

The problem is that most New Year’s resolutions fail. There are a lot of reasons for this, some of which we can control (like stating a realistic and clear resolution) and some which we can’t (a life change out of our control). If you truly want a resolution to succeed, though, the best way to do it is to eliminate the reasons against it that you can control and protect the resolution as much as you can against the factors that you can’t control.

Here are ten steps to building a very strong New Year’s resolution that you can keep.

1. Don’t set a lot of resolutions.
In fact, I don’t recommend setting more than one. If you set a lot of them, you lose focus on individual resolutions, making them hard to achieve. I would focus on tackling the one thing in your life that bothers you the most and focus on a resolution that helps to fix that problem.

2. A resolution is almost always part of a longer-term pattern you want to establish - figure out what that pattern is.
If you’ve decided to invest this year as part of your resolution, it’s part of a bigger pattern. Maybe you want to reach a greater state of financial stability right now. Maybe you want to bump up your savings for retirement. Maybe you’re just going to save for a new house. Whatever it is, your immediate resolution is just a strong first step towards that bigger goal. The same goes for a health-related resolution, a personality-related resolution, or so on - you’re hoping to cause a bigger change in your life. Understand what that change really is and keep that big picture in mind even as you make little steps.

3. Give yourself a timeline within the resolution.
You might be planning on setting a goal related to investing, which is a laudable goal but very vague and easy to forget about. Instead, state that you’re going to invest a certain amount each month. Take your resolution of “I’m going to invest this year!” to “I’m going to invest $200 a month this year!”

4. Make the resolution as specific as you can.
Transform your resolution into a plan. That means filling in as many details as possible. Take your “I’m going to invest $200 a month this year!” into “I’m going to contribute $200 extra to my 401(k) this year and put that money solely into stocks in an effort to grow my balance quickly and head towards retirement faster.”

5. Make sure your resolution is achievable.
Quite often, people bite off resolutions that they can’t chew. If you’re resolving to save $500 a month and there’s simply no way your budget can afford that, cut down your target substantially. Similarly, if you’re resolving to lose a ton of weight, look at what’s realistic and cut things down a bit - if you improve your likelihood of success by taking small steps, then go that route.

6. Make sure you understand the regular actions you have to take to achieve the goal.
If your goal is related to saving, realize that the money you’re going to save has to come from somewhere, likely regular, good financial moves. You’ll be making lots of small choices during the day - not buying stuff at the store, avoiding an expensive morning coffee, and so on. Similar truths exist for other resolutions: with weight loss or healthier living, you have to make a choice to exercise and you also have a choice to make each time you eat a meal. Recognize those small choices and keep them constantly in mind.

7. Make sure there are tiny, discrete steps within your resolution.
Every single day, there should be something simple and small you can do to move towards your goal. Make sure you know what those steps are and take them over and over again. For example, with a financial resolution, your daily step might be to not stop and buy a morning coffee and not stop at the bookstore each Tuesday. Taking these little daily steps will make achieving your bigger resolution much easier.

8. Automate as much as you can.
If your resolution is financial, automate it. Make the investment automatic - sign up with your banking or financial institution to automatically deduct the money and have it directed to where you want it to go. It’s harder to do this with other resolutions, but it can be done to some extent - just completely eliminate unhealthy foods from your cupboards, for example, so that your choices at home, no matter what you choose, are automatically healthy.

9. Make sure to check on your progress regularly and frequently.
Your resolution should be filled with mini-milestones that you can check in on as frequently as possible - weekly, at the very least. You can check your weight weekly, your account balances weekly, and so on - the whole point is to make sure that you are seeing success, and you can then use that progress as evidence that you are making positive forward progress.

10. Don’t succumb to “rewarding” yourself via actions that undermine the resolution.
It’s fine to celebrate your success, but make sure that your celebration doesn’t undermine your goal. If you’ve lost ten pounds this month, don’t celebrate with a Sara Lee poundcake - celebrate by buying a new clothes item that fits your thinner shape. If you’ve achieved a savings goal, don’t go out and buy a bunch of stuff as a reward - instead, just take a few hours to do something else that you consider fun (for me, I’d spend an evening playing a Wii game, for example).

Doing these things, with any resolution, will drastically increase the chances of success. Good luck!

Talking Myself Out Of Frivolous Purchases 101comments

I’ll start off this time by relating a few tales of recent shopping excursions where I talked myself out of making some seriously frivolous purchases.

A week before Christmas, I was at an electronics store searching for a shower radio for my sister-in-law. While wandering around, I went through the flat panel television section. As I’ve mentioned before, our current decade-old television has cloudy corners and my wife and I agree that sometime in the next few years the picture tube will fail. Anyway, I stood there admiring a 46″ LCD television, envisioning how we would rearrange our family room to accomodate it, including some wall-mounted shelves on either side of it to hold DVDs and other electronic equipment. Three years ago, I probably would have left the store with a big box. This year, I didn’t.

Two days before Christmas, I spent most of an afternoon playing Halo 3 and Bioshock online with my cousin. I was atrocious, but I had a lot of fun. Afterwards, he practically begged me to get an XBox 360 so we could play together online. I was tempted, but I won’t be buying one.

Yesterday, I was at a bookstore searching through the cookbook section for a book with a good description of how to make some particular variations of homemade pasta - I’ve been trying some things and it always winds up being of a texture that doesn’t cut very well (it seems to shred, actually). I found an amazing Italian cookbook that not only clued me into what I was doing wrong (insufficient kneading and not running the dough through the roller more than once), but provided a very elegant description of the whole process. I was sorely tempted to get it, but instead I just read aloud out of that section into my voice recorder, went home, promptly added the book to my Amazon wishlist, and sighed with relief that I didn’t spend unnecessarily.

Earlier today, I was at a coffeeshop for a brief meeting with a potential business associate. I was tempted to get a big ol’ $6 coffee, but instead I just requested water, which was comped to me, and sat down at the table.

In each case, I was tempted to spend on something I didn’t need, and I resisted the urge to do it. The items were at a variety of price levels, ranging from the $6 coffee to the $3,000 LCD television, but the principle remained the same: I didn’t need it, so I didn’t buy it.

Three years ago, I would have probably spent the money in each of those situations, at a point in my life where my income was substantially lower than it is now. What changed? The biggest change was that I realized I didn’t really need stuff to make me happy. An extension of that is that I learned how to talk myself out of frivolous purchases.

I hear from a lot of readers who realize that stuff doesn’t make them happy, but they’re still having a difficult time figuring out how to actually say “no” to their purchasing habit. For instance, a reader wrote to me recently describing all of the spending that they had cut out, but lamenting that they were still having difficulty making ends meet and paying for their “needs” like “kid’s sports fees and equipment, new clothes for work, painting the living room, and counseling.” In each of those cases, they made a choice to spend and even if you realize that you’re making a real choice in such decisions, it can still be hard to say “no,” especially if you’ve spent many years saying “YES YES YES!”

My approach to saying “no” is pretty simple. For each and every purchase I make, I try very hard to talk myself out of the purchase by asking myself a few questions about that purchase:

What’s the best thing that could happen to my life if I make this purchase?
This question usually nails unnecessary upgrades, like buying the flat panel television. Does my life improve if I buy it? If it’s just an upgrade, then the improvement is just incremental - and if it doesn’t add any major features, that incremental improvement is tiny. With the flat panel, the only thing it does is increase my floor space in the family room by a square foot or two - and that’s only if I wall-mount the thing and rearrange our other home entertainment equipment. Not much of an improvement at all, especially compared to the price.

What’s the worst thing that could happen to my life if I don’t make this purchase?
This one filters out frivolous new items, like an XBox 360. If I don’t buy the item, nothing changes in my life. There’s nothing bad that happens in my life if I don’t have an XBox 360 compared to not having one. Obviously, this is a compelling argument for some purchases, like a cell phone, but for many things, you realize that nothing bad really happens if you don’t have it.

Do I already have access to something that substitutes for the function of this item?
Here, we’re filtering out redundant purchasing, like the cookbook. I already have cookbooks that cover most of the material in that book, so even though I’d like to have it and read it, I do realize that it doesn’t bring any new value into my life. In other words, perfect gift material - I’d enjoy it (likely quite a bit), but it’s not something that serves a need for me.

Could I acquire this item cheaper elsewhere?
This one encourages comparison shopping, and often stops the urge when the other questions fail. I often know I could find the item cheaper online or at another retailer, so I think about the cash I could save with just a little patience and that’s enough to get me out the door. You might also be able to get that same item for free: counseling could come from a valued friend, or a book might be had for free from the library.

Am I buying this entirely for social reasons?
This final question battles peer pressure, like the urge to buy coffee when you go to a coffee shop with friends. Why not just buy water instead? When you go clothes shopping, don’t buy clothes you don’t need just to be social. The real question is whether you would buy this item without others around - if the answer is no, you should never buy it.

In a nutshell, these questions are merely there to get you out of the store and away from the immediate temptation to buy. With time and reflection, you may in fact decide to make that purchase, but such calculated and researched decisions aren’t the problem - impulsive buying is the real danger.

Zen and the Art of Item Replacement 62comments

My family has only one television in the house, and it is primarily used for playing Wii games. It’s an enormous, extremely heavy old 32″ television, bought when I was in college and now approaching ten years old. In all four corners, the screen has begun to turn faintly blue, and it shows up particularly well on a white screen, as the cloudiness covers a good portion of the screen.

Not too long ago, I would have insisted on replacing this immediately, but in all honesty, it doesn’t interfere with any of our usage of the television. Thus, we’ll keep it until the issue becomes serious enough that it disallows our use of the television for any purpose.

Quite frankly, some of our friends and family think this is weird. “Why don’t you just replace it?” they ask. “You can afford it, you know,” they’ll say, as though they need to remind us that we can, in fact, spend money.

The real truth of the matter is that my wife and I have started to follow a set of unwritten rules about when and how to upgrade or replace the items that we have now. I thought it might be fun to actually write some of these down and share them.

Rule #1: If it isn’t broke, don’t replace it.
This means that if we have an item that is functional, we don’t replace it with something newer (there are a few little caveats to this that I’ll explain later). This rule is why we haven’t replaced our television yet and we probably won’t until the tube blows - it’s functional, so why replace it?

Rule #2: When we do replace something, we replace it with long term quality and reliability.
For example, our house came with a washer and dryer set that we plan on using until they’re on death’s door. At that point, we will pony up and buy quality replacements for them - ones that are energy efficient and designed to last for the long haul. This might cost us a lot out of pocket right then, but the efficiency and reliability of the items will pay dividends for many years afterwards.

Rule #3: Upgrading before the end of the lifespan is fine if there is a clear and compelling functional reason for the change.
Our kitchen knives are a great example of this. We have a functional set of kitchen knives that work well for most of our uses, but they’re not excellent and they are frustrating for some tasks (vegetable chopping, etc.). The knives simply aren’t designed well enough to execute repetitive chopping and so on. Thus, the knives are on our list of items to replace in the future. When we do replace them, we will replace them with stellar knives, ones intended to last a lifetime.

Rule #4: No item is upgraded unless we both agree on the need for the upgrade.
If this rule weren’t in place, I might have already replaced the knives. However, my wife is still riding the fence on them - we’ve slated a replacement for them in the long term, but not immediately. Why? Her argument is that they still do most tasks well, so we should buy single knife upgrades for specific tasks. My argument is that some single knives will just encourage us to upgrade all of them, so we might as well save the money and get the whole set. We will do a knife upgrade when we are in full agreement on what to do, but until then, we’ll wait until we agree on what to do.

Rule #5: Try to avoid things that have a steady “upgrade” cycle.
Video game consoles come to mind. We own a Wii, and we know from the past that video game consoles are “upgraded” every five years or so, with the console manufacturer reducing and then eliminating support for the old console as the new one begins to sell well. Does this mean we upgrade when the new console comes out? I don’t really plan to as long as I’m still enjoying games for my Wii - I actually have far more games right now than I have time to play, so why upgrade until I’ve gotten the enjoyment out of everything that I have?

The same logic goes for HD-DVD and BluRay. I see no reason to ever upgrade to them until it literally becomes impossible to get movies on regular DVD - and even then, I won’t upgrade for a while. Why? I have all of the movies I enjoy watching repeatedly on DVD already, so why upgrade to a new format? I’m very glad to see that some family members of mine feel the same way - one of them actually has a VCR in a box (just in case they completely go off the market) so that they can continue to watch their video tape collection and aren’t forced into an upgrade that doesn’t really add value.

In short, we don’t upgrade that often, but when we do, we do it with items of quality, not just a cheap replacement item.

Review: The Ultimate Cheapskate’s Road Map to True Riches 24comments

Each Friday, The Simple Dollar reviews a personal finance book.

cheapI love books on frugality, but they’re actually pretty rare - the personal finance section at your bookstore is pretty heavy on debt management and investing and extremely light on frugal living. Because of that, I’ve been eagerly anticipating this book by Jeff Yeager, a regular contributor to NBC’s Today show. On the show, he talks about ways to save money, ranging from the simple to the borderline extreme, and does it in a humorous fashion - interesting enough that my mother has thrice mentioned things that Yeager has talked about on television and suggesting that I write about it on “that web site of yours.”

Given Yeager’s segments on Today, I was expecting a funny, lightly-written book on frugality and personal finance that would be a quick read on a lazy Christmas vacation afternoon - and that’s exactly what I got. I read the whole thing in one sitting and finished with a smile on my face and a few ideas in my head. Is that enough for a strong recommendation, or is this just a book to flip through, smile at, and toss aside? Let’s dig in and find out.

Looking Into The Ultimate Cheapskate’s Road Map to True Riches

1. Introduction: The Money Step
The opening chapter was a humorous summary of the basic idea behind Your Money or Your Life. In Yeager’s words, most of us are trapped in a crazy, never-ending dance with our wallet, one in which we work hard to earn money, which we then spend on stuff that we convince ourselves that we need. The real trick is to figure out what we actually need and what is unnecessary. For most people, a good chunk of spending falls into that “unnecessary” area, and that’s really what frugality is about - determining what’s really in that “unnecessary” area and what’s not.

2. Fiscal Fasting: The First Step Down the Road to True Riches
Yeager recommends starting off your financial turnaround by not spending any money for a week. I applaud this idea a lot, and I’ve talked about doing a money-free weekend in the past on here (along with fifteen things to do, fifteen more things to do, and fifteen fulfilling things to do on such a weekend). The idea is to separate yourself from your spending routines. By stepping back from the diversity of ways that you spend money in a given week, you can begin to see which ones you truly miss and which ones you barely remember - and the ones you barely remember are the ones you can give up right away to put money in your pocket.

3. Six Golden Rules for Ruling Your Gold
For the most part, these six golden rules boil down to one thing: don’t buy something unless you need to buy it. The six golden rules are largely corollaries to this general statement: borrow things if you can (via neighbors or the library), don’t buy items to replace the ones you’re already using and are still working, and so on. Perhaps the best tip in the whole chapter is to focus on pinching dollars rather than pinching pennies: instead of burning a bunch of time trying to “optimize” the interest on your savings account, instead spend that time making sure you’re putting money automatically into a savings account to begin with.

4. Warning: Money May Be Hazardous to Your Health
Yeager focuses mostly on food in this chapter, and he makes the astute point that for the most part the dollar cost of healthy food is less than the dollar cost of unhealthy food. Thus, quite often cheapskates eat the healthiest diet - after all, fresh carrots and homemade whole grain bread is very cheap compared to a prepared meal from your grocer’s freezer aisle, and that’s not including the health and exercise costs as a result of eating unhealthy foods. One can even compare the McDonalds Dollar Menu to home prepared foods and find this to be true. However, Yeager does overlook one aspect of this: time costs. One big advantage of the prepackaged meals is the time investment - you can come home, throw it in a baking dish, toss it in the oven, and it’s soon done - very little effort required for a tasty meal so that you can channel that effort elsewhere (towards spending time with kids, for example). That’s the reason, for the most part, that I seek out time efficient ways to prepare and reuse food at home. I like mastering the art of leftovers and convenience foods.

5. Buy a Home, Not a Castle
Here, the topic is housing, and Yeager is firmly in the “buy within your means and pay it off ASAP” club. He also doesn’t believe in banking on your home’s value for retirement, which is definitely the correct lesson to take from the last year or so in the housing market. Instead, he advocates buying cheap, getting a “real” mortgage for it, then paying it off quickly through accelerated payments.

Yeager makes a good argument for doing this, one that made me go run the numbers. Let’s say, hypothetically, you had the choice between a $200,000 and a $400,000 house right now, and you can get a 30 year mortgage for either one at 6%. For the $200K house, your monthly payment is $1,199.10 and for the $400K house, your monthly payment is $2,398.20. You have enough to just make that larger payment, so if you buy the cheaper house, you can make double payments.

With the cheaper house, you will have the house paid off in nine years and will have dropped $59,428.74 in interest. If you keep putting that $2,398.20 into the bank each month, in eight more years, you’ll have $200,000 in equity in the house and $200,000 in cash in the savings account - in only nineteen years and with only $59,428.74 paid in interest. With the more expensive house, you’ll own the house in thirty years, but will have paid $463,352.70 in interest. That’s a pretty good argument for buying as cheap as you can and paying it off rapidly.

6. Slow Down, You’ll Get There Faster
If you figure all of the costs to buy and maintain an automobile against the income of the average American, you only get five miles of driving in your automobile for every hour you work. That’s a disturbing thought and one that I barely believed at first, but after running some numbers (using my wife’s Mercury Sable, which is more efficient than my truck) using the average Iowan’s salary, he’s actually right. In comparison, a bicycle is much more efficient, even including the speed difference. Let’s say you can average 15 miles per hour on your bike, but can average 45 miles per hour in your car. Over a 90 mile trip, you’re spending four extra hours on the bike compared to the car, but the cost per mile for the car is far, far higher than for the bike.

What does that mean? It means that for small distances, it makes a lot of sense to use a bicycle or to walk. This reduces the mileage on your car, making it last longer. Thus, if you’re going to the post office that’s a half a mile away round trip, take your bike - you’ll spend roughly the same amount of total time and you won’t put that extra mile on your car - or burn that extra portion of a gallon of gas - or inch that much closer to an oil change. Instead, you’ll get some exercise out of the deal.

7. An Amish Guy’s Guide to the Digital Age
This chapter deals directly with gadget lust, and it boils down to a handful of principles. First and foremost, wait thirty days before buying any gadget or electronic item. Second, ask yourself if it really fulfills a need in your life. Third, research the item carefully and know what you’re buying before dropping the cash. Fourth, ask yourself what the best thing that will happen if you do buy it and the worst thing that will happen if you don’t (this is usually pretty compelling for me). Fifth, ask yourself if the next generation of this product might be a better buy and worth waiting for.

I find that using similar principles almost always keeps me from buying things I don’t really need. One of my biggest challenges now is the knowledge that I can afford frivolous purchases quite easily - I can pay for most items I can think of in cash without blinking. So, instead, I just continually ask myself, “How does this really benefit my life?” and variations on that question. Hmm… maybe this would be a good article on its own soon.

8. Now That’s Entertainment
Right off the bat, Yeager pulls out one of the most valuable points from a book I discussed a while back, Daniel Gilbert’s Stumbling on Happiness. In it, Gilbert makes the assertion that most stuff tends to lose value over time, while most experiences retain their value through memories and such. Thus, if you have $2,000 in the bank and want to spend it to entertain yourself, you’re far better off spending it on a great vacation than on a flat panel television that you don’t really need.

Yeager then goes on to point out that many, many great experiences are cheap. I tend to agree, actually. While the best vacation I ever spent was with my wife on a honeymoon to England, I can’t honestly say that the massive extra expense compared to some of our other vacations (say, our camping trip on Mount Rainier above the snow line in summer) was worth it. In terms of bang for the buck, actually, my favorite vacation of all was probably a camping trip in the summer of 2006 - we made a road trip out of it and camped on the north shore of Lake Superior with our son when he was eight months old or so. We spent almost an entire week there and spent barely $100, but I remember it fondly (and the video of my eight month old staring wide-eyed out over the lake is one of my favorite captured moments of his life so far).

9. Getting Your Nest Egg Laid
What about planning for retirement? Yeager basically says that you should simply put away as much as possible, because most recipes for how much to put away really don’t do a good job of capturing the specifics of a financial situation. Since it never hurts to have more than you need in retirement, just put away as much as you can and then you know you don’t have to sweat it when you’re older.

This is basically the same conclusion that I’ve come to after trying to figure my “number” over and over again. Yeager’s specific investment advice (go for solid investments like bonds for much of your retirement) makes sense, but with the numbers that I’m socking away (I actually get warnings at work that I’m approaching annual contribution limits and stuff) and the long term of the investment, a little bit of short term loss is fine with me in order to be able to ride the elevator of a bull market or two over the next few decades.

10. Conclusion: Go Forth and Be Cheap
In the end, Yeager hits it right on the head. Frugality is about valuing time more than stuff. For some people, this seems surprising - how, then, can I talk about making homemade bread as a frugal experience? To me, cooking is a spiritually fulfilling activity, well worth my time invested in it even if it didn’t save us money (and, trust me, sometimes it doesn’t). In the end, it really is all about time - and making sure that you have the time to do the things that are valuable to you.

Buy or Don’t Buy?

The Ultimate Cheapskate’s Road Map to True Riches is a light and very fun read on frugality. The humorous tone, self-deprecation, and solid advice mix together into a very enjoyable read, one that I enjoyed quite a bit - even more than I expected.

That being said, The Ultimate Cheapskate’s Road Map to True Riches is a book targeting beginners. It focuses on frugal ideas and tips that can easily be applied to an average American life, and most of the ideas are likely already being used by people who are in control of their money already.

If you don’t mind this, or you’re looking for a good, fun book to read on the basics of frugality, The Ultimate Cheapskate’s Road Map to True Riches is definitely worth reading. I certainly enjoyed it - not only was it a lot of fun, it was a quick read and I dug out a useful idea or two for myself.

Life and Discipline: Using the Five Personal Finance Business Cards for Other Aspects of Life 14comments

A while back, I wrote a post outlining everything you needed to know about personal finance on the back of five business cards. In a succinct way, that post laid out the most important pieces of personal finance: spend less than you earn, and do that by living frugally and focusing on increasing your earnings - from there, you’ll achieve financial independence.

The truth is that most of that philosophy applies to any self-motivated goal, from teaching yourself something new to losing weight. To show how useful that general philosophy is, I decided to apply the “five business card” philosophy to two goals I have for myself in the coming year: learning how to play the piano and losing weight.

1. The Most Important Thing
business card 1

Losing weight The transition of that principle to weight loss is pretty straightforward: consume less than you burn. In other words, the caloric intake in a given day should be less than the calories spent when you’re in weight loss mode.

Learning the piano But how does that rule apply to learning a new skill? Basically, it’s a motivator to practice - each day you practice, you get better, while each day you don’t bother, you get worse. It’s also a cry to work on the fundamentals, which is also true for any kind of training. Practice more, put it off less is a good way to describe it.

2. Earn More!
business card 2

Losing weight This basically means burn more - in other words, exercise. My plan is to start walking/jogging each morning as a tool to wake myself up, and I received a pedometer for Christmas to help me set specific numeric goals for this part of the plan.

Learning the piano For learning the piano, this basically means stop avoiding practice. If I want to actually learn an instrument, I should practice on a consistent schedule instead of every once in a while on a whim. Setting up a clear practice schedule with clear goals (a certain number of sessions a week, for instance) enables me to consistently practice over time.

3. Live Frugal!
business card 3

Losing weight Here, the idea is to do what you already do in a more efficient fashion. In other words, I should cut some unhealthy elements out of my diet. Part of my plan for the new year is to try a part-time vegetarian diet, mostly in an effort to discover truly appealing healthy dishes - this should help quite a bit with cutting down on the unhealthy food intake.

Learning the piano This means that when I do practice, the practice should be worthwhile, including working on fundamentals and chords and scales and simple songs that really reinforce these things. Sure, I can try to stretch what I know as well, but completely mastering the fundamentals is what will make me a solid pianist.

4. Manage money!
business card 4

Losing weight This basically refers to defining larger goals for what I’m doing, because if I both exercise and eat better, I will have the fuel I need to meet my goals. I plan on lowering my BMI by 5 by the end of 2008, and I’ll track that data in Excel throughout the year. Mostly, I want to feel more in shape.

Learning the piano I want to be able to functionally play a number of Christmas carols by the end of 2008, and be able to piece through many more from the sheet music. In other words, I want to build the consistent practicing and the quality practice into the functionality of being able to play God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen.

5. Control your own destiny!
business card 5

Losing weight The larger goal for losing weight is to get myself into a healthy shape so I can participate in every imaginable activity with my children as they grow up and keep up with them as well (at least until they’re in high school). I want to be able to teach my son how to play basketball in the driveway and play one-on-one with him regularly without worrying about passing out.

Learning the piano I’d like to be able to tackle most songs of reasonable complexity on the piano without much hesitation. I can piece things out in a very rough fashion now, but I know my skills are not strong and I badly want to change that.

Restating the Five Cards: What They Really Mean

The truth of the matter is that the five business cards apply to any goal you might want to set in life. It really boils down to these five pieces:

1. Make a personal commitment. This means sitting down, defining exactly what you want to do, and figuring out what needs to be done to get there, both in terms of your life right now and any new things you might need to add.
2. Add something you aren’t currently doing, like exercising, starting a side business, practicing regularly, reading regularly, and so on.
3. Improve the quality of something you are currently doing, like spending less money, working on fundamentals, reading more challenging books, spending your evening free time in a more useful fashion, and so on.
4. Set short term goals. These are the smaller things you can directly work towards and constantly see progress towards, like like reaching a small savings goal or reading a handful of books on a challenging topic or even watching your BMI go down by one. They should be very simple and quite reachable - you don’t want to burn out before you reach your first milestone.
5. Set long term goals. Usually, the short term goals are just a piece of what you really want. Spend some time specifying exactly where you want to be in the long run, and each time you meet a short term goal, set a new short term goal with your long term goal always in mind.

Any time you want to accomplish a personal goal, spend some time defining it in this context. You’ll find that once you’ve done it, the goal suddenly seems a lot more tangible and reachable.

Good luck on achieving your dreams.

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