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Making Your Own Laundry Detergent: A Detailed Visual Guide 94comments
About a year ago, I posted a general description of how to make your own laundry detergent that proved quite popular. That article basically described in a general sense how one could make laundry detergent at home very cheaply, but it left out a lot of key issues: does it work well? What does it look like as you are making it? What are the real-world costs and time investment? What equipment do you need?
This past weekend, I made a fresh batch of homemade laundry detergent and I took a ton of notes and pictures. I enjoyed the process - I got to make a giant bucket of slime in the kitchen and my wife approved. Let’s see what we can learn from the process that might save us some cash.
Making the Laundry Detergent
The only ingredients you actually need for homemade laundry detergent are as follows:
1 cup washing soda (I use Arm & Hammer)
1/2 cup borax (I use 20 Mule Team)
1 bar soap (I use whatever’s cheap, in this case Pure & Natural)
Approximately 3 gallons water
You’ll also need a container of some sort to store this in (I use a five gallon bucket with a lid), something to stir it (I use a large wooden spoon), another pot to boil soapy water in (I use the pot in the picture), and something to cut up the soap (I use the box grater in the picture).
First thing, put about four cups of water into the pan and put it on the stove on high until it’s at boiling, then lower the heat until it’s simmering.
While it’s heating up, take a bar of soap and cut it up into little bits. I found a lot of success using our box grater, which resulted in a ton of little soap curls.
When the water is boiling, start throwing in the soap. I recommend just doing a bit at a time, then stirring it until it’s dissolved. Here, I made the mistake of just tossing in all of the soap at once, which wasn’t particularly helpful:
Stir the soapy water with a spoon until all of the soap is dissolved. Eventually, the water will take on the color of the soap you added, albeit paler. I used Pure & Natural soap for this, which was a white soap that looked a lot like a bar of Ivory.
In the end, you’ll have some very warm soap soup:
Next, get out your large container and add three gallons of warm tap water to it. I’m using a bright orange five gallon bucket that I had lying around:
To this bucket add a cup of the washing soda and the soap solution you made and stir. The borax is optional - some people say that it’s too harsh, but I’ve always found that it did a good job getting clothes clean and fresh smelling, so I recommend adding a half cup of borax to the mix.
After stirring, you’ll have a bucket full of vaguely soapy water:
Don’t worry if your batch doesn’t match the color of my own - it varies depending on what kind of soap you use. I made a batch with Lever 2000 in the past and it had a greenish tint to it, and I’ve heard reports of all kinds of different colors from other people who have tried this.
At this point, let the soap sit for 24 hours, preferably with a lid on it. I just took our bucket to the laundry room.
When you take off the lid, you’ll find any number of things, depending on the type of soap you used and the water you used. It might be firm, like Jello; it might be very watery; it might even be like liquid laundry detergent. Just stir it up a bit and it’s ready to be used.
My batch wound up being rather slimy. It had some slimy-feeling water with various sized pieces of white gelatinous stuff floating in it. Here’s what it looked like - I’m using a video here because images don’t really capture it.
Don’t worry about the texture - it’s completely fine. Just use a measuring cup and use one cup of the detergent per load of laundry. If it’s got “globs” in it, get a mix of the water and of the globs - it’ll break up very quickly in the washing machine and wash your clothes well. If you’re still concerned, you can mash up the globs quite easily, but I saw no reason to do so.
How Well Does It Work?
Naturally, I wanted to test this detergent out. I tried to think of a good way to do something foul to a shirt, but something realistic - something I might do as a rather normal Midwestern guy that might also occur to any other guy in America. The answer hit me quickly.
Mustard.
I took two white t-shirts and squirted them both down with mustard, all over the front. Here are the two t-shirts:
The above t-shirt is the one I washed with Tide with Bleach Alternative, which is the laundry detergent we’ve used by default when we don’t have any homemade detergent on hand. It’s the one most highly recommended by Consumer Reports and this is the perfect opportunity to show what it can do. After I took the picture, I smeared the mustard into the shirt a little.
The above t-shirt is the one I washed with my homemade detergent. My mustard container ran out near the end here so the trail of mustard isn’t as long. I had already smeared in the mustard when I took this picture. Also note, although the pictures don’t clearly reflect it, the one smeared with homemade detergent was somewhat dingier right off the bat - it’s an older shirt, I believe.
Down in the laundry room, I pre-treated each stain by taking a small amount of each detergent and rubbing it into the stain with a brush. Then, I washed each shirt in a normal load - one load with Tide with Bleach Alternative and one with my homemade detergent.
Which one won? I fully expected the Tide to win - in fact, I was just hoping the blowout wasn’t too bad so I would still have a good reason to write this article. In fact, they turned out almost identically - they both smelled clean and looked quite white coming out of the dryer. Take a look:
With the homemade detergent, you can still make out parts of the mustard streak, but other parts appear to be completely gone. With a proper pre-treatment or a washing in bleach, this shirt would be as good as new.
With Tide with Bleach Alternative, the same exact story is true. You can still make out where the stain was if you look close, but it’s almost completely gone. A proper treatment would have resulted in no stain at all.
Here they are, side by side, for you to judge. The Tide shirt is on the right, while the homemade detergent shirt is on the left:
They’re pretty close. They’re both obviously very clean white tee shirts with a slightly noticeable mustard stain. At different points in each mustard streak, the streak appears completely gone - at other places, it’s fairly noticeable. That’s likely due more to my pre-treatment application than anything else.
Frankly, I couldn’t tell a difference between the two. Both detergents produced a clean-smelling shirt. Both produced a very white shirt with just a slight remnant of a mustard stain - a remnant that was almost identical in the two shirts. In a nutshell, I believe my homemade detergent cleans comparably to Tide with Bleach Alternative.
The Cost Breakdown
Here’s what I paid for the ingredients:
The box of Borax, which contains enough Borax for at least twelve batches of detergent, cost $2.89. The box of washing soda, which contains enough soda for six batches of detergent, cost $1.89. The soap, which came in packs of three (as pictured above), cost $0.89 per pack - I bought two, to ensure I had enough for six batches. The Iowa sales tax on this stuff was $0.39, giving me a total bill of $6.95 for the ingredients - enough for six batches. I also used perhaps a penny’s worth of water and a penny’s worth of heat to heat it - a total cost of $6.97.
Each batch of detergent contains 52 cups of the solution - 48 from the three gallons in the bucket, and four more cups of water with the dissolved soap. Since I use one cup per load, this means a single batch makes 52 loads’ worth of detergent.
Let’s say, hypothetically, that I make six batches of the stuff and use the other half of the box of Borax for something else. That means I’ve made enough detergent for 312 loads of laundry for a total cost of $6.97. That’s roughly two and a quarter cents per load of laundry.
Let’s look up Tide with Bleach Alternative, the Consumer Reports recommended detergent. You can buy four bottles of the 150 ounce Tide with Bleach Alternative from Amazon for $62.60. We’ll assume free shipping and no taxes here to help Tide’s case out. Each of those Tide bottles has enough detergent for 78 loads of laundry, meaning the case will cover 312 loads of laundry. Thus, each load of laundry using Tide with Bleach Alternative costs almost exactly $0.20 for detergent costs.
In other words, nine loads using my homemade detergent has the same detergent cost as one load of Tide with Bleach Alternative.
To put it in another perspective, let’s say I do one load of laundry a day for a year using each detergent. Using my homemade stuff, I spend $8.15 for the detergent over the course of the year. Using Tide with Bleach Alternative, I spend $73.23 over the course of a year. Using my homemade detergent instead saves me $65.08 a year. Plus, it was fun to make.
My Conclusion
Given that the detergent seems to do roughly as well as our regular name-brand detergent and is ridiculously cheaper, I plan on using my homemade detergent for the foreseeable future. I make no claims or guarantees as to the effect the detergent will have long term on your clothes - frankly, I don’t know. But I do know it cleans well - it passes muster for me and seems to handle difficult stains roughly as well as Tide with Bleach Alternative - and I do know I plan on using it for a long while. It’s hard to say no to that kind of savings.
Great tut, thanks! I’m curious to see how something like this would work in a front loading washer where they often recommend a HE detergent. Is it too soapy? Can we use less and it will still work?
I make a powdered version with similar ingredients. Combine 1/2 cup borax, 1/2 cup washing soda and 1 cup grated soap flakes (I use Fels Naptha - approximately 1/2 of one bar is one cup of flakes). Stir to combine. Use 2-3 tablespoons per regular load of laundry. I find that it works just as well as any commercial laundry detergent.
Great use of the pictures.
The grater is a good idea. I’ve been using a Magic Bullet blender to chop up the soap to very fine particles. It makes the soap dissolve much faster.
How does it work for a front loading washer? HE detergent is so expensive, but I find regular detergent does foam up too much and cause problems.
I enjoyed this informative and entertaining article. My question: where can I find a five-gallon bucket without buying something?
I know nothing about HE washers. Saying that, if I had an HE washer, I would try using a lesser amount of this stuff in a load, like half a cup or two thirds of a cup. That’s what I would TRY - I have no idea how it will work.
“The grater is a good idea. I’ve been using a Magic Bullet blender to chop up the soap to very fine particles. It makes the soap dissolve much faster.”
Interesting. I never tried that. I just figured the soap would melt all over the blades.
Can you you fancy smelling soaps?
This is an excellent addition to an already phenomenal site. You’ve written about making your own laundry detergent before, but including a tutorial is a great way to encourage people to attempt to do this on their own. Keep up the great work!
Just curious if you wash with cold or hot water? We use Tide ColdWater at home, and I’m wondering if homemade detergent would work as well in cold water.
Thanks,
JVM
“Can you you fancy smelling soaps?”
I don’t see why not, but I’d expect all my clothes to have a hint of that smell. Is that good or bad? That’s kind of your call - personally, I’d prefer not to have my pants smell like lavender, but I’m a blue-jeans-and-tee-shirt kind of guy most of the time.
We have an HE washer and were advised to use half the amount of regular detergent. I’ve never had a foam-up, and we save a lot on detergent. Not as much as we’d save if I made it myself, of course. My concern in the HE machine would be the chunkiness of the detergent. Seems like it might not flow out of the dispenser the proper way. Something to try though, maybe a small batch.
When we lived in Canada it was always Liquid Tide. When we moved to Europe I wasn’t familiar with the brand name detergent so I simply bought the cheapest store brand and I found it worked just as well and is often half the cost. But surprisingly fabric softener the cheap stuff doesn’t work. I stick to the better quality stuff.
BTW I haven’t seen Borax over here.
@ Michael–You can usually get free buckets (might be larger than 5-gallon, though) at the bakery in your supermarket, if you ask. And, if they’re nice.
hmm….i don’t like regular soaps because they’ve got bad stuff in it. like anti-bacterial ingredients, or things that aren’t good for your body. Do you think a good environmental-friendly soap will be just as good as an ingredient?
I make the powdered version too. The hardest part is getting the soap small enough. I use my Vita Mix, but I still have to chop the soap into small chunks and blend very small amounts at one time. As long as you don’t run the blender too high or for too long, it shouldn’t melt. I find that especially with the powdered recipe, if the soap isn’t small enough, it doesn’t integrate well with the other powders. But it works very well, and I actually really like the smell of the Fels Naptha, almost more than store brand.
This formula is missing the corrosion inhibitors, enzymes and chelating agents that are usually present in a commercial detergent. This may reduce the life of your clothing and washing machine. I would caution against using this in a HE or front loading washer. Because the water use is lower, concentrations of contaminants is higher and these additional ingredients in commercial products are more critical. Also, there are typically special surfactants or surfactant formulations that do not foam as much to prevent damage to the machine.
Nice post! Love the idea of slime detergent. I am using stuff from BJ’s at about 200 loads for $20 and I thought I was getting a good deal. You are getting a killer deal.
I live in a hard water region, so the first batch made my white clothes very dingy. I thought about adding Calgon water softener, but it was too expensive, so I added some water softener salt crystals-the kind they put in water softening machines–(requires lots of stirring to dissolve it, but it was only $4 for a 20lb. bag) and doubled the amount of detergent when I did my laundry. Now it works fine! Also, I used the same formula (minus the soap bars) in my automatic dishwasher. It cleans the dishes well, but the glasses come out hazy, so now I use the homemade dishwasher detergent for the first wash, and Cascade for the final wash. Result: sparkling clean dishes, and the Cascade lasts twice as long.
I have been using this in my HE front loader and it works GREAT! It is not too foamy at all ( I use 3/4C ) and I can not see how it will ruin my machine when it has less crap in it rather than all the chemicals of the commercial detergents. I use vinegar in the fabric softener compartment to help soften/reduce static in my clothes that I line dry.
Apart from the advice from “Credit” above, this sounds like a great plan. I’m glad you provided an update of this great post with pictures. It is something I’ve read several times over the last several months, but I’ve never had the guts to make it and try it.
You could always use soapnuts. If you didn’t want to mix a load of chemicals in your kitchen.
http://www.inasoapnutshell.com/
They are good for the environment, and good for people with sensitive skin. About a quarter of the price of commercial detergent, as well.
Thanks for the recipe. I’m looking forward to trying it out. I have one question though: Do any of the ingredients contain phosphates? Here in SE Australia we’ve been in drought for the better part of 10 years and I use the grey water from our washing machine to keep my garden alive (not food plants, just the pretty ones). The green, environmentally safe detergents are always the most expensive so I’m always looking for alternatives that are safe to use.
I’ve followed your recipe three times over the past five or six months - one batch lasts *about* 2 to 3 months for us - and I think your soap works BETTER than commercial laundry detergent. Also, our daughter is extremely dye sensitive and it’s nice to have control over what goes in our soap as well as saving a LOT of money.
We have a 1.5 quart plastic bottle that we fill with the stuff and keep it right there on the shelf with the stain treatments and fabric softener (the bucket is in a cupboard in the laundry room, handy for refills). We also have an old Tupperware ’sippy cup’ we’ve recycled to use as a measuring cup and only use about 2/3 of that for a single load, so about half a cup, ish. We have a top loading washer and so far your soap just works great, even on warehouse worker’s filthy clothes. We’ve even used it as a pre-treater when my husband’s jeans come home greasy and it gets the stain right out.
Works great and it’s CHEAP. Fantastic stuff!
—IN REGARDS TO ‘HE’ DETERGENTS—
http://www.cleaning101.com has available for download a free report from the soap & detergent association that talks about HE washers and the detergents. In it there is some info on why you should NEVER use regular sudsing soap in your washer machine.
See here- http://www.cleaning101.com/laundry/HE.pdf
Quote:
“Q. What can happen if I don’t use an HE detergent in my
HE washer?
A. Using a regular detergent in an HE washer can create too many
suds. These suds can interfere with the washer’s washing/tumbling
action by “cushioning” the laundry, thus reducing soil and stain
removal performance and rinsing effi ciency. These suds can also
cause water and/or suds to overfl ow from the machine.
Excess suds can also cause the washer’s pump to overheat or to
add more water — this in turn can lengthen the wash cycle, thus
reducing water/energy savings. These excess suds can also lead
to residue buildup since they are not as easily rinsed away — and
over time, they could lead to unpleasant odors, potential machine
malfunctions or damage.”
“Q. What can I do to keep my HE washer in top condition?
A. Because your HE washer is designed differently than agitator (high
water level) machines, there are some specifi c things you can do to
ensure that it performs at its best.
Low wash temperatures and/or use of regular detergent (which
causes excess suds) may prevent some soils from completely
rinsing out of the HE washing machines. Oily soils and some
dirt-type soils are especially sensitive to lower wash temperatures
and medium to high suds levels. Over time, these soils may
accumulate in the HE washer and lead to the growth of bacteria
and mold — and create odors in the HE washer.
You can usually avoid these potential problems by using an
HE detergent and by running a regular “maintenance cycle.””
To note, if you are using a top load, making your own detergent makes it as cost effective as having a front load HE machine.
A HE machine saves about $.25 per load in energy costs over a top loader.
Making your own soap for a top loader saves you about $.25 per load over buying HE soap.
So basically its a wash (no pun intended) in terms of cost to you, just not the environment.
@ Michael - I’ve gotten my buckets from a nearby deli, but I would suspect a lot of types of restaurants would have them.
No need to buy soap especially for this job.
When the bars of soap I use in the shower or at the sink have melted down to a quarter of an inch thick or less, I set them aside for making laundry detergent. There are always enough of them when it’s time to mix up a new batch.
Re 5 gal buckets: if you can’t find anywhere to get one for free, and don’t want to buy something (e.g. cat litter) packaged in one, you can buy them at Home Depot or similar hardware store.
Cool, Trent. I may never use your ‘how tos’ but it’s nice to have the information out there.
I have been making this detergent for 6 months or so and have been happy with the results.
I use an empty cat litter plastic bucket/lid to store my 3+ gallons of detergent. I use a funnel to pour the stirred up mixture into used liquid detergent bottles. My detergent has “globs” in it like Trent’s, but if I shake the bottle vigorously, I get a more homogeneous mixture. I like my detergent without the “globs”.
washing machines and detergent are fine, but how about a little citrus juice and a hard rock?
are you going to recycle this material every time you make a batch??
We’ve been using a recipe similar to yours for 6 months and won’t ever go back to store bought.
Our recipe uses fels-naptha too and then after it has gelled use a hand blender to mix it up to a detergent like slurry. Also add about 25 drops peppermint essential oil when mixing. Plan to try lavender next time.
We use it in our top loading HE Fisher/Paykel and it works fine.
so glad you posted this. I made my own detergent a few weeks ago because of your original post. My husband’s been teasing me about it so I’ll definitely show him this follow up.
Great job on your tutoral. I plan on making this when i run out of my tide. Now I have a real “visual” of how it needs to look when its done. How about making a 2X version for the space deprived?!?
I am a little skeptical of some soapy water mixture with lumps in it. If soap is soap, then why not pretend palmolive is 8x concentrated detergent and use it?
How does it work on cloth diapers? Everything that I’ve read says that you need to use the most bare bones detergent possible on cloth diapers, and I just wonder if the body soap that you use has chemicals in it that will cause harm to the diaper. With an $18 per diaper investment, it’s something to be worried about!
Thank you so much for doing this! I have always heard of people doing this but was curious what the results were, now I know!
Mastercard??? You bought the ingredients on credit? Isn’t that going against the standard teachings of personal finance?
I’ve been using this recipe since 1995 and have played with various adaptations of it. At first I hand grated the soap but later used the food processor to first grate and then pulverise the soap, then I’d bag it into 1 cake lots for future use. I used the liquid recipe for quite a few years. By accident I found that it was brilliant at stain removing if the stained garment was soaked directly in the large bucket of laundry mix and left there overnight at least. When I bought a front loader I had to rethink using the liquid so I just used the powdered components. Easier and less time consuming than making up the liquid stuff. I stored it in an old 500g borax container. Took up way less room than a large bucket. Recently I’ve gone one step further and just used washing soda alone in the front loader and my wash is just as good as ever. If I want to soften the fabric any, I add bi-carb soda. I used to use vinegar in the top loader and it had a similar effect on the clothes as a softener but over the years the machine got very rusty. My laundry costs (excluding water and electricity) still run at around AUD $10 per annum.
I LOVE this detergent - I add essential oils like lavendar or orange. I started using this recipe about 3 months ago & just made my 2nd batch. I used Kirk’s Castille Soap the first time and a Fels Naptha laundry bar this time. Both work well. My husabnd, who is often wary of my tightwad ways, says he can’t tell the difference from regular detergent. For tough loads, I add an extra hit (1/8 cup or less) of washing soda or borax. I’ve told my mom about this and she uses it now, too!!
The only this is, I read that you’re not supposed to use washing soda on wool clothing. I keep a $3 mini-bottle of commercial detergent for handwashing wool stuff - only used about 1/2 the bottle for the whole winter.
“Mastercard??? You bought the ingredients on credit? Isn’t that going against the standard teachings of personal finance?”
Not if you pay off the balance in full each month AND accumulate rewards that you actually redeem or cash-back rebates.
Paul, uh no. Credit is often a fundamental part of personal finance.
The Simple Dollar has many posts on using credit cards responsibly.
Or perhaps if it is a debit mastercard.
Michael, Go buttonhole a professional painter or sheet rocker, They will give you five gallon white pails with lids which is how they get paint and spackle. Trent, ANOTHER WONDERFUL THING ABOUT YOUR SOAP IS THAT YOU ARE NOT BUYING NEWLY MANUFACTURED (with expensive oil) NON BIODEGRADEABLE PLASTIC TIDE BOTTLES WHICH CLOG THE LANDFILLS AND ARE NOT RECYCLED TO MAKE MORE BOTTLES ANYWAY. Good for you at finding a cheap, great quality soap and not adding to the landfills! The paper wrappers from the borax and other ingredients can be COMPOSTED or recycled.
Trent,
Q? - What type of washing machine do you have??? I have a top loader, which waste so much water + elec.; saving for a front loader.
Front loaders from my experience at the laundrymat, does wash your clothes better & fast. In the end, costing less on water and electric usage — clothes are dryer.
Spring, Summer, Fall I can just let them air dry out on my yard, on a dryer racks. Works very well for a family of 7.
Thanks! I plan on trying this soon.
As far as the Mastercard comments, I have a Mastercard debit/bank card and if I run it as credit instead of entering my pin, it shows up as Mastercard. Doesn’t necessarily mean he used a real credit card for his purchase.
Do you think the detergent would be just as effective if you used half the amount?
The reason I ask is that I use All Detergent, bought on sale combined with a coupon. I currently have enough detergent for a year or more bought at $1.99 a bottle. Though I imagine with the recent price increases it will soon cost more.
I only use 1/2 to 1/4 the recommended amount and my laundry still comes out clean. We tend to not get really dirty except when I am working in the garden. I do have a teenage son, a softball playing daughter and a husband who is active so our laundry often has the “stink” factor. One 32 load bottle lasts my family of 4 for 2 months. (I always write the date on bottles when I first open them to keep track.)
So I am spending 3 cents or less on a load.
So making my own won’t really save me any money. Maybe 3 cents a week at the most. Though if using half is effective in the future it might make sense. Depending upon price increases, etc.
Do you think you could experiment on a regular load and see if half the amount would work?
Thanks!
“But I do know it cleans well - it passes muster for me…”
And apparently it also passes mustard for you!! (groan… haha)
SAFETY ISSUE
5 gallon buckets with liquids are a safety hazard with small children and infants. Many buckets have this warning on a label attached. Small children can fall head first into the liquid and be unable to extricate themselves, leading to a drowning tragedy. This needs to be stored someplace where it is impossible for a child to get to it and if they do manage to get to it they can’t get the lid off. I would put it into smaller containers for storage purposes.
That’s pretty cool! Thanks for the pictures…they made me think that I can do this.
One question…where do you find Borax? I’ve never seen it before.
Thanks for the refresher! I’d love to try it, just haven’t gotten up the nerve yet. Also, I usually get my detergent pretty cheap when it’s on sale and also use coupons.
Just curious if your homemade detergent has had any effect on your children’s skin, especially when they’re babies.
what about using Dawn liquid detergent bought on sale or at the dollar store? I use the 20 mule team borax on whites with Dawn. May throw in Oxy Clean on colored clothes instead of borax. What does the Arm & Hammer washing soda do? Would the washing soda be something to increase the cleaning power of the Dawn? Probably isn’t as cheap as you made yours.
Hi, my son who is a junior at Notre Dame is a great fan of this blog. I read your posts via his shared items on googlereader. Thanks for this post– I am posting about it on my blog! With seven kids, well, laundry detergent is a big item in our budget. I wanted to tell you about another great find for me, just this past weekend: make you own pancake/waffle syrup. I will never buy store bought syrup again! Super easy– my 12 yr old did while we flipped the pancakes. And better tasting too. Just buy Mapeline essence (in the spices rack area) and follow the instructions. Ingredients? Water, sugar, Karo. My friend Ginger has told me about this for years and I had never tried it!
Hi,
I have ben making my own deteargent for about two years (since age 23). I grind up my soap (1/3 bar of Fels-Naptha) in a coffee bean grinder I got at a garage sale—creates a better consistency I have found. Every basic ingredient I need (sans bucket and wooden stir stick) I find in my Rainbow Foods soaps aisle. I also have started adding a drop or two of a scented essential oil—this means my deteargent has a designer scent that doesn’t harm my clothes :O) Also: I only need a 1/2 cup per load…..but my recipe is slightly different than yours.
I found borax in the laundry detergent aisle of my local supermarket — both a larger and a smaller store — but I’m having trouble finding washing soda. Any ideas on where to look for it?
Wow — am I going to be the only one who says this seems like an awful lot of hassle?
Maybe it’s because I live solo and I don’t use tons of detergent. I buy a big box of Sears unscented enzyme-activated soap for about $15 and it lasts me for a long time — maybe a year.
I mostly use delicate wash detergent and hang-dry my clothes. My clothes last a long time.
$72 seems like a lot of savings for a year, but then you realize that is based on a load of laundry a day. I guess maybe some families wash clothes that often, but for my husband and I it ends up being around 1x per week. Not such a good savings anymore, plus we live in an apartment, so no room to store this giant bucket of slime. Probably not something worht doing for us, but maybe some people.
HERE’S HOW TO FIND WASHING SODA NEAR YOU
You can call Church & Dwight’s customer service line. They are the owners of the Arm & Hammer brand.
1-800-524-1328
You can go through their automated system or speak to a customer representative. They’ll ask for the product you need (in this case Arm & Hammer Washing Soda) and your zip code. They should give you the nearest location that has sold the product in the last 30 days.
Good luck!
For those who don’t want to make their own, you can also get a great detergent, Charlie’s Soap that can be used in miniscule amounts, is HE compatible and runs about 10 cents/load. It isn’t actually a soap (it is a detergent) and contains no additives so it does not leave any residue. Homemade recipes that use soap can leave residues on fabrics that sensitive people can react to and can cause cloth diapers to repel water instead of absorbing.
Trent,
It’s neat to see the pictoral after all of your previous references to the homemade stuff you’ve been using. $72 is a good chunk of change. Have you ever considered your hourly rate for making the stuff? It’s sometimes comical to think about how many hours I spent on tasks like re-tiling a small bathroom - at least I got a new skill out of it!
Also, is your stuff viscous enough to pour out of a re-used detergent container? I imagine that would be handier than prying open a large bucket for each load.
Trent-Doesn’t your wife make soap? Have you tired using her homemade soap? I pour my soap into a box lined with a garbage bag. When I cut it there is always rough edges I trim off and keep. When I get enough I melt it altogether and pour it into a mold and I have what I call sausage soap. I would guess you could just use the shavings in this laundry detergent recipe.
I make my own powdered detergent and what I do is I grate the soap then I leave it out for a couple of days so the soap slivers dry out. Then I put them in my food processor and run it a bit until it becomes a powder. Just be careful not to breath the stuff. It dissolves perfectly when I do this.
Interesting post….might just try it, but will store it in the garage if I do (thanks for the warning, GayleRN…got a very inquisitive toddler).
As for the great HE debate…..I’ve had two HE washers. One in my old house (almost 2 yrs old), one in the house my brother is living in (coming up on 8 yrs of service). Both are Kenmores. Have only used regular detergents in them…..but only a splash. Maybe it’s been about a 1/4 c or so. Never had a problem with the machines, and our clothes have all been just fine.
I made this a few months ago and plan to again. My husband does all the laundry in our front loader. He uses more soap than I think he should so I add a bit more water. I find filling up old plastic containers from detergent about 3/4 then being able to shake the mixture helps get rid of the lumps. For the person looking for a 5 gallon bucket ask someone with a cat who (I use litter buckets) and then get some old laundry detergent bottles from previous use or other times you’ve bought detergent. I knew I was going to make this at some point so I saved my containers.
How does this detergent affect wastewater treatment? I know that soaps are a huge problem in the recovery of wastewater for secondary use, although I am by no means know legible on this issue.
How does this detergent affect wastewater treatment? I know that soaps are a huge problem in the recovery of wastewater for secondary use, although I am by no means an expert on this issue.
Sorry, that is odd it posted 2x.
We’ve been making this for a while now. It took a couple loads to convince my husband, but now he asks for me to make it when it’s running low. I find it’s great for stains! Although, I’ve also found that different soaps will give a different consistency in the finished product.
Have you or anyone else made this detergent with glycerine soap? I have to be very careful what I use on my skin and this looks like just the thing for me and my family.
Chiming in on the 5 gal. bucket, ask your local fast food joint for a pickle bucket. I know Burger Kings around here will give them to you!
In the dark ages, when all washers were front-loaders (my mother replaced her wringer washer with one of them) and all laundry soap was just plain old laundry soap, the trick to avoiding overflows was to use less laundry soap. There was no such thing as HE detergent, and sudsiness was marketed as a good thing.
I don’t know if HE washers are very different from the old front-loaders, which didn’t use all that much water either. What I do know is having grown up with a front-loader (and the overflows — lordie! what a mess to clean up! — and the aching back from having to bend over to haul wet laundry out of them), I wouldn’t have one. And I sure as heck wouldn’t pay the premium price they’re charging for a machine that will put your back out.
They make an HE washer with no agitator (!) that’s top-loading. The cost is the equally ridiculous, though if you live near a Sears outlet store you can get them refurbished or unnoticeably scratched for a few dollars less than brand-new. Bet one of these would moot the overflow issue.
Look for Dr. Bronner’s All-One Hemp Unscented Baby-Mild Pure Castile Soap. It contains organic coconut, organic palm, & organic olive oils (with retained glycerin); water; organic hemp oil; organic jojoba oil, salt, citric acid, and vitamin E. The stuff is wonderful on your hands & face–probably would make a good shaving soap–and would give you a home-made laundry detergent free of unpronounceable ingredients. Dr. Bronner’s is available at Sprouts. Trader Joe no doubt carries something similar.
If you stir (wisk) your detergent every now and again while it’s resting for 24 hours it helps a bunch with the chunks. I let my kids stick their hands in the bucket and squeeze it between their fingers to break it up. They think it’s great fun. My kids are 11 and 15 so they won’t fall in the bucket. If they’re not around I just run my wisk through it. I don’t have the huge glumps when I do it this way.
Or…you could buy the cheapest detergents at the cheapest stores and not have to mess with all those soap flakes. I get no-name brands for a LOT less than Tide and find them just as effective. If the homemade detergent could be made w/o boiling or fussing with grating soap, I might give it a shot.
I found a coupon for Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda!!!http://itsmorethanenough.blogspot.com/2008/04/arm-hammer-sample-and-coupons.html
What size soap bar do you generally use? For those who do not want to boil water or grate, what if you placed the bar in the bucket you were going to use ,cover with a dark trash bag or cloth and left out in the sun? Solar warm water. It may take a little longer, but why not?
Thanks for the walkthrough. Now, I need to find a cheese grater.
We’ve been using this ever since you posted about it originally. Absolutely no complaints - but many thanks!
For the gloppy bits after the soap sits overnight:
I used a long wire whisk to stir my soap. Instead of letting it sit 24 hours undistributed, I stirred it every few hours, or at least as often as I thought about it. It was still slightly gloppy, but the chunks were smaller and there was less water separated.
It wasn’t labor intensive, I just took the lid off and gave its a good stir whenever it crossed my mind. Makes it much easier to measure out when there are no large chunks. Also, once the soap had sit for a day or so, I put it into some juice bottles that I had saved. It makes it easier to pour out of a smaller container.
Washing soda is nearly impossible to find in my area. I would have to buy it online. What store do you get it from?
Regarding 5 gallon buckets……..another place to check out where houses are under construction. In our area the joint compound used on sheetrock comes in 5 gallon buckets and the crews are happy to get rid of them. Less to clean up for them!!!
Wow! People do this for a washing detergent? Have anyone tried store versions of washing soaps (such as Walmart’s Great value) or discount brands such as “All”. They are usually less priced; almost 1/4 - 1/3 of Tide’s price and you don’t have to jump to hoops for a washing soap.
The dog food we buy comes in plastic containers with a screw on lid on top., which I save for this purpose. Since the container also has a molded-in handle, it is easier to use than dipping out of a bucket, and I can just shake up the container if the mixture is lumpy.
My kids and I just made some flarp slime last week.(the kind you put into a cup and smush to make rude noises with) And the ingredients are baking soda and borax, so that’s why the slimy consistency. Just thought that was interesting that it looked like what we had made. Cool tutorial I will definately be looking into it!
Thanks
To make less, do I cut recipe in half or use 1/4? Or use less water? I dont have the storage space.
Quick question….maybe someone went over it…perhaps I missed it (hard to read EVERYONES comment)…does the detergent take on the smell of the soap? I am absolutly in love with baby smelling detergents (Dreft, ALL Baby…ect.)…just wondering if I used a bar of Johnson & Johnson baby bar soap if it would take on that smell?!
What is the H-Mill Rye flour? You did not mention
using it in the recipe.
Hi, i just made your detergent. Do you think i could use this detergent for my baby’s clothes?
Awesome! I’m going to try this and since I already make my own bath soap, out of natural ingredients. I’m going to use that in place of the store bought bar of soap. Mine is nicely scented too so that will be a nice plus.
Wow, this is an awesome way to cut costs. :)
Great post! I’ve forwarded this article onto a few friends of mine who will definitely be making a batch.
I currently live on my own in a small apartment so I’m not sure I’d see the cost savings. Currently, to reduce laundry costs, I pre-treat stains with a cheap stain remover, use half the recommended amount of no-name brand detergent, and wash my clothes in cold water. My mom and I agree that my clothes look/smell just as good as if I’d used the “proper” amount of a high end detergent.
Ever tried making it by diluting the Tide and mixing it with the washing soda and borax? The reason I ask is because a friend of ours gave us some bottles of Tide as a thank-you for helping them move and do a few loads of laundry for them. I had been using my homemade batch of laundry soap for our clothes and the Tide for theirs, and I guess they felt sorry for us and wanted us to have the expensive stuff! :) I like the smell of (some) Tide varieties. It would certainly add a few pennies to the cost per load, but might stretch it a little. I also want to be able to re-use the Tide containers, and wished that my homemade stuff was less gelatenous. I’ll just have to keep experimenting…
i just bought the sears ultra plus buckets on sale last friday. with their sale price, loads come out to 5 cents per load and i didn’t have to make it, although it does sound really fun…. 275 loads per bucket. i probably have 5 years worth of laundry soap now.
My wife must have been reading this article, I just came accross it when I hoped on. I am bookmarking this site so she doesn’t forget it. Very good stuff.
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It’s even a little bit cheaper if someone in your family travels a lot for work and can grab bars of hotel soap. We have so many bars of this free-to-us soap that we give bags of it away to homeless shelters or battered women’s shelters about twice a year. We never come close to running out, even though I use it to make our own detergent.
Nice pictorial.
Kate @ 2:10 pm April 9th, 2008 (comment #1)