Chris writes in:

We are friends with another couple that is around our same age, income level, status, and number and age of children. When I was mentioning to them that we were planning to pay off our car this year (leaving us with our mortgage and a small student loan) and the starting to put $50 to $100 per into 529s for each of our kids (currently aged 1 and 3), she mentioned that they were not starting 529s, but rather had a different philosophy….. They were going to contribute up to the company match in the 401K, max out a roth IRA (every year) and then pay off their house in 15 years, which would be just when their oldest is about to start college. Then they would use any excess from their income (that was now free because they no longer had a mortgage) in order to help with their child’s education. She also mentioned that she did not believe that her children would qualify for much (if any) financial aid. This would be the case for us as well. We are currently putting approximately 10% into our 401K and we plan to put approximately $3,000 per ear into a Roth IRA starting this year. Can you comment on what might be the pros and cons of either financial philosophy? I suppose that I should also mention that I do not forsee us having any issues with having enough $ for retirement and my philosophy is that I would like to contribute to 25-33% of my children’s college costs.

First things first: with all things being equal, you’re better off putting your money into retirement savings than into college savings. There are several reasons for this.

First, your children can make college happen even if you don’t have a dime saved for them. Between student loans, scholarships, and other aid, most students who are accepted to a school will be able to find some way to go there. They may end up with a lot of student loans in the process, but it won’t prevent them from getting an education.

On the other hand, you can’t make up for missed retirement savings. Nothing can undo missing the early years of your retirement plan, because those are the years when compound interest is at its most powerful. The money you put away right now will be much more valuable than any money you put away in your 50s or 60s.

Another factor to consider is that many retirement plans allow you to “borrow” against them for educational expenses. You can withdraw some amount, agree to a repayment schedule, and use that withdrawn money to help pay for your children’s college education.

A final note: if you haven’t saved adequately for college, you may end up being a financial burden for your children late in life. You might not ever ask them for money, but they’ll see that you don’t have much money and will stretch their wallets to help you when they can. I have seen this many, many times.

In short, if you’re unsure, I recommend saving for your retirement over saving for your child’s education.

The next question, then, is why should one ever save for their children’s educational expenses?

We’re saving for that purpose. That’s because we have plenty of money to save at this point – our retirement savings are fully covered, plus we have extra money beyond that to push towards long term goals. One of those long term goals (for us) is to pay for some significant portion of our children’s college education. After doing the math, we decided that saving $100 per month for each child from the day they were born to the day they leave for college is the best bet.

In other words, if you can save for college without short-changing your retirement, go for it.

What about that third factor, though? Where does paying off your house rank?

When it comes to using your home as an asset for college savings, you’re betting on two things. First, you’re betting that the payments you make on your home mortgage are more financially efficient than money socked away in your 529. If your mortgage interest rate is 6%, then your money channeled into that is effectively earning a 6% return. If you put that amount in a 529 instead, you could earn more or less than 6%, depending on your investment choices and the risk you’re willing to take on.

The second (and more challenging) bet comes later, when you want to tap your home equity. You’re betting on the interest rates at that future date, because your loan will charge you some interest rate. Will you need the money at a time like today, where the Federal Reserve is keeping rates low? Or will you need it at a more challenging time, when interest rates are higher?

If saving for college is important to you and your family, I would probably do things in this order: retirement savings, then college savings, then mortgage.

One final note: I would never rely on future earnings to pay for college education. Our lives are far, far too uncertain to bank on your professional income in fifteen years as a source for college savings – or savings of any type. People radically change careers. People are downsized. People are disabled. People stumble into great opportunities. These things happen all the time. To bet on stability there would be the biggest gamble of all.

Good luck.

This is part of an ongoing series about how to trim the budget of the average American. As this series focuses on such broad-based tips, some will work for you and some will not. You’re invited to mention in the comments the tips that you found to be the most useful for inclusion in a comprehensive budget trimming guide at the conclusion of this series.

Pensions, Social Security – $5,027

For the most part, there’s not much the average American can do to alter the amount of money they pay for Social Security and for pensions. For most of us, this is merely a paycheck deduction, something we never see in our take-home pay.

Yet there are several things we can do to increase the value of that money or to secure it. Here are some options that you might want to consider.

Insure your pension. Many corporations have played games with the pensions long-promised to their employees. If this is a concern to you, you can insure your pension so that you’re not at risk of losing it. The Pension Benefit Guaranty Corporation (http://www.pbgc.gov/) can help you get started in this regard.

Know what Social Security benefits you’re entitled to. The Social Security Administration mails this information to most citizens annually. Study this information and know what you’re due to receive so you can plan accordingly. If you don’t have access to this information, check www.socialsecurity.gov.

Know how much money you’ll actually need in retirement. Spend some time utilizing retirement planning tools (I like this tool at MSN Money) so that you know exactly how much money you’ll need in retirement. Use this number to see if you’ll be meeting your needs or not. If not, now’s the time to start socking away more (which we’ll address in another section of this series).

Minimize your requirements. If you’re finding that you’re far short of what you need, you may want to consider minimizing your financial requirements for the future. A big move in another area – like downsizing your home, particularly if it’s overly big now that the kids have moved out – can often create the breathing space you need.

At the same time, improve your self-sustainability. If you have money for it now, invest in things that will make your retirement years much more self-sustaining. Instead of buying a new car, invest in geothermal heating. Instead of redoing the kitchen, look into a small wind turbine. Learn how to garden and to cook. Such assets and skills can drastically reduce your spending.

Develop a “second career.” If you’re still intending to take advantage of your pension as early as you can, consider developing a “second career” that will provide some income while allowing you to engage in something you’re passionate about. There are many jobs and entrepreneurial activities – from tour guide to caterer – that can match exactly what you enjoy while still bringing in some extra income.

Share resources and ideas. Don’t be afraid to talk about your money with people in the same boat as you are. Share ideas with your friends and other people nearing retirement age. Don’t take on your concerns and worries about retirement in isolation – quite often, the people you care about most are facing similar concerns of their own, even if you don’t see it from the outside.

I want your help! In the comments, please let me know which of the tips you find most useful for trimming these costs. I’ll include the top choices in a comprehensive budget trimming guide at the conclusion of the series.

Several people in my close inner circle of friends and family have made the active choice to go into careers where they will be earning a low income for life. Their calling is in areas of social work and they’ve made the financially difficult choice to follow their heart. That earns a lot of respect from me.

Of course, when you step back from that decision and look at the course of one’s life, many normal financial choices become much more difficult. Many low-paying careers do not offer the same benefits as other careers – there simply isn’t the money available.

So how does a person in a low income career path save for retirement?

First of all, most low income people will have to plan for their own retirement beyond Social Security. Although some non-profits do offer 403(b) and other such retirement plans, many offer nothing of the kind and expect the employees to figure out their own path.

The best option for most people in such a situation is a Roth IRA, which is paid for with after-tax money. Since you’re already earning a pretty low wage, the tax advantages of 401(k)s and 403(b)s are less important.

Roth IRAs are pretty simple to understand. A Roth IRA is an investment account in which you can contribute as you wish throughout the year up to an annual limit (currently $5,000 if you’re below age 49). Once the money is in the account, you can choose to invest that money in whatever options the company managing the IRA has available to you – you can keep it in cash, buy bonds or stocks, or put it in index funds that allow you to own a little bit of everything. Any income you earn from these investments stays in the account and, when you reach age 59 1/2, you can withdraw that income without any taxes or any penalty at all. You can also withdraw the money you contributed at any time, but you can’t put it back into the account to replace it – once it’s gone, it’s gone.

A Roth IRA is pretty simple to open. Most investment firms offer Roth IRA plans of some sort. I use Vanguard for my own Roth IRA and I’ve been very happy with them and the investment choices they offer, but your mileage may vary.

I encourage anyone in a low-income career without a retirement plan to open a Roth IRA for themselves and contribute what they can on a regular basis. The easiest way to do that is to set up an automatic investment plan that withdraws a small amount from your checking account every week. Even $20 a week adds up to $1,040 over the course of a year, which is a good step in the right direction.

A second factor to note is that by choosing a low-income career, you’ll learn how to live on a low income. This means that your retirement needs will be much lower than people who earn a much higher income than you. You don’t need to stress about having millions in retirement when you retire.

Of course, there’s an important catch here – financial independence. If you’ve embarked on such a career but haven’t become fully financially dependent yet, you’re currently living above your means. Move towards financial independence. Start today. If you’re still being supported by someone, direct that support into something distinct, like your student loan bills, and learn how to live off of what you actually make yourself.

Yes, it’s hard. Yes, it often means passing on things you’d like to have. However, there are many valuable lessons to be learned from that process. You’ll learn what’s truly important to you – and what really doesn’t matter too much. You’ll learn how to live frugally and understand quite well how to maximize a dollar. Those are lessons that will help you throughout your life, in more ways than just saving a dollar.

My last suggestion is one that’s good for everyone to follow: don’t let pride stand in your way. When people offer to help you, it’s because they want to help you, and you bring value into their life by accepting a helping hand sometimes. Don’t turn down a free meal from someone who appreciates the work you’re doing. Don’t turn away a friendly gentleman who is impressed with the work you’re doing and gives you $50 to help you out. Just don’t rely on these things – accept them as they come.

Pride is our natural enemy. It constantly causes us to make choices that put us in a worse place than before. It often causes more social negativity than social positivity. Never be too proud to accept someone’s genuine offer of help.

Here’s an example. In my early years, I knew several people who did missionary work for the Latter Day Saints. Even though I’m not a member of that church, I know that such work is long, hard, lonely, and often without reward. Today, I’ll often give a bag of cookies or a few dollars to such missionaries. Quite often, they’ll say no out of pride. Yet, I wouldn’t be offering if I did not genuinely want them to have what I gave them.

Good luck!

“Shane” writes in:

I’m twenty three years old. I just got a really great job with a 401k that’s matched 100% by my employer up to 10%, which I’ve heard from others is a really great deal that I need to take advantage of. So I started investing 10% of my paycheck so I can get the matching funds.

The only problem I have with this is that I have no idea about retirement. It’s more than forty years away. I just put my money into the investment the person told me to put it into so I have no idea if it’s a good one for my retirement. I don’t even know where to start.

I get emails like this quite often from young professionals who are completely clueless about retirement – and for good reason. When you’re forty years away from retirement age, the thought of retirement seems incredibly distant. It feels more than a lifetime away – that’s because it is more than a lifetime away.

The one piece of knowledge that many young professionals do have, though, is a solid sense of self. They have a good basic understanding of who they are, even if they haven’t pieced through the details yet. And, quite often, this basic understanding is more than enough to make some sound retirement decisions.

Here are three questions I’d encourage any twentysomething to ask themselves.

If money were no object, what would you do with your time?
Some people would choose to be idle with their time, enjoying all of the freedom that comes with it. They’d party. They’d go on trips. They’d goof off. They’d play on their Xbox all day long.

Other people would want to work for something or build something. They’d spend their time with a volunteer project – or maybe even start their own. They need to have a big productive project in their lives in order to feel fulfilled and happy.

Most retirement advice is written for people in the first group. They’re the ones who, when they reach retirement age, will want to travel and spend their later years enjoying themselves with leisure as much as possible.

The other group gets personal enjoyment out of working and being productive. With the many opportunities already available for people to work as late as they’d like in life, such people will probably work at something – whether it’s gainful employment or a big volunteer project or some mix of the two – until they drop dead with a tool in their hand.

If you’re in the first group, you need to be saving as much for retirement as possible. While it’s fine to put money into riskier investments when you’re young, you should start moving into more conservative investments – like bonds or treasuries or cash – pretty early on, even as much as twenty years before retiring.

If you’re in the second group, saving for “retirement” basically means saving for the last year or two of life when you’re unable to work and also saving for some supplemental income for the last few decades of your life. You likely don’t need to kick the savings into high gear and can afford risk a little later than the other group, sliding the money into conservative investments five or ten years before you begin to withdraw it.

Are you frugal?
Do you carefully watch your pennies? Do you spend time seeking out the best deal on an item? Are you find with eating beans and rice a few evenings a week because it’s a dirt-cheap meal that’s still pretty healthy? Do you buy – or at least try – generic versions of products?

If such choices come naturally to you, to put it simply, financial life as an adult is going to be easier for you. After all, if you’re careful with your pennies, the dollars will follow. Because of this, you’re likely to have built up significant assets before you reach retirement age – in which case, pushing your retirement savings to the hilt might stand in the way of your other goals in life.

If such choices seem completely alien to you, you’ll have a more challenging road ahead of you. Almost always, you’re better off financially if you minimize the number of financial mistakes you’ll make along the way. In that case, you’re probably better off pushing your savings up a bit.

Are you interested in having children?
When you picture yourself twenty years in the future, does that vision involve children? For some people, it does – I know it certainly always did for me. For others, it does not – some of my closest friends are wonderful around my kids, but they can’t imagine having children of their own.

Parenting is not for everyone. It can be infinitely rewarding to the right person, but infinitely frustrating to others. On top of that, it’s incredibly costly – little people are unquestionably expensive. They rely on you for everything – their food, their clothes, their space, their education. If you don’t relish in this thought, parenting might not be right for you – and that’s fine.

If you do envision children in your future, kick start that retirement. The more you save now means that later on you’ll be substantially ahead of the savings curve and you can pull back on your contributions in order to devote more resources to raising your children. Even if you end up not having children, you can still pull back later on in order to enjoy travel and other adult endeavors. Also important is the fact that a well-funded retirement means that you’ll never wind up being a financial burden to your kids.

On the other hand, if you are doing everything you can to avoid the remote possibility of children, it makes sense to save for retirement at a slower rate now, allowing you extra money to enjoy the more adult-oriented things you want out of life.

Just worry about the saving for now – don’t sweat the details.
Many people get overly wrought about making sure that their money is in the “perfect” investment. To put it simply, your investment choice is secondary – by a long shot – to simply saving your money as soon as possible and as much as possible.

Start saving now. If you don’t know what to invest in, just ask for suggestions from the representative there. Since it’s a tax-deferred retirement account, you can make investment changes later on without any tax issues.

One good default choice is a “Target Retirement” plan, which basically means that the fund manager will put you in aggressive investments when you’re young, then gradually make the investments more conservative as you grow older. This is a great choice if you’re unsure.

Later on, when you’ve gained some experience in the world and perhaps learned more about investing, you can take a more direct hand in your choices.

For now, though, the best decision you can make is to simply start saving.

Good luck.

Every other Sunday, The Simple Dollar reviews a personal finance book.

Ever since I first gave it a sincere read-through in late 2006, The Bogleheads’ Guide to Investing has been my go-to guide for investment advice, the first place I turn when I have a question about investing. My paperback copy is now well-worn and thoroughly enjoyed.

Recently, a follow-up (of sorts) has appeared on the scene. This time around, however, the book is more of a collaborative effort, containing chapters written by different authors who focus in on specific topics. What they all have in common, however, is that they are all “Bogleheads,” referring to people who believe strongly in the investment philosophy of John Bogle, the chairman of the Vanguard Investment Group.

To put it simply, The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning focuses on a fairly conservative investment philosophy, one that doesn’t involve extremely risky investments or exposure to cataclysmic failure in the face of a market downturn. The Bogleheads’ philosophy instead mostly focuses on careful balancing of one’s portfolio (so that a sudden stock market swan dive won’t ruin your future) and investments designed to match the market at a low cost instead of gambling on a chance to beat the market that has a high cost attached to it.

Intrigued? Let’s dig in and see what the book has to say. I’ve broken this down into individual chapters and have labeled each chapter with the chapter’s author.

The Retirement Planning Process
Thomas L. Romens
THe book opens with a chapter that discusses the difference between saving for retirement – something every adult should be doing as soon as they enter the workforce – and planning for retirement. Saving merely means socking away money into something designed for long-term growth. Planning for retirement, on the other hand, involves knowing in great detail what one’s retirement will look like – standard of living, personal goals in retirement, and what assets are needed to get a person to that point. During the saving phase, a person should sock away as much as he or she can, so that the planning phase is much simpler and less prone to risk (since, without adequate savings all the way along, retirement planning will have to involve significant risk or a significant extension of one’s working life).

Understanding Taxes
Norman S. Janoff
Taxes are confusing (and I believe they’re unnecessarily so). Mostly, this chapter just highlights most of the areas of tax law that are really relevant to individual retirement planning. Since the amount one pays in taxes has a direct impact on how much money one needs to have in retirement (the more taxes you’ll have to pay, the more money you’ll need), understanding taxes is vital. This is mostly just a great little reference to the different taxes that most of us are subject to.

Individual Taxable Savings Accounts
Dan Kohn
The first retirement savings option that’s discussed in the book is the individual taxable savings account. These can vary in type from savings accounts at your local bank to investment accounts at a brokerage house. These all work in more or less the same way – you put in money you’ve earned from your career after taxes, pay taxes on any gains that you make with that money, but you have the freedom to withdraw it and do what you want with it without any additional penalty. Such taxable accounts have one very big advantage – flexibility.

Individual Retirement Arrangements
Jim Dahle
Another option for a person wanting to take ahold of their own financial destiny are individual retirement arrangements, like Roth IRAs. These are accounts you can set up with brokerage houses that take advantage of specific tax laws to either defer your tax payments on your earnings to retirement or, in the case of Roth IRAs, eliminate them entirely. Typically, such accounts are set up directly by you with a brokerage house. Usually, you set up an automatic investment schedule and you’re completely responsible for the account, from investment choices to withdrawals. Thus, such options tend to provide much more flexibility than employer-based accounts (like 401(k)s), but tend to require a bit more effort on your part.

Defined Benefit Employer Retirement Account
The Finance Buff
The title of this chapter refers to pension plans – and if you have one, you’re lucky. Your primary concern should be how these plans are insured against the health of your business. What happens to your pension plan if your business fails? Most modern plans have some sort of insurance against this – often, the plan is run by a third party that specializes in such plans. If you have this plan, it’s usually very easy to understand as it clearly outlines the exact benefits you’ll receive in retirement.

Defined Contribution Plans
Dan Kohn
For most of us, this means 401(k) or 403(b) plans. Such plans allow us to put in pre-tax money (meaning money is taken out of our paycheck before taxes and we only pay taxes on the remainder) and then pay taxes on it only when we withdraw it in retirement. Such plans usually also include some matching funds from our employer, which is essentially free money for retirement. If you can get that free money, get it now – start saving immediately if you have access to matching funds from your employer. If not, you may want to consider your 401(k) or 403(b) plan to be a backup and look at individual retirement arrangements, as they will minimize your tax burden in retirement.

Single-Premium Immediate Annuities
Dan Smith
Annuities are actually a form of insurance, in which you pay a premium regularly over a long period of time in order to ensure some specific amount of income in retirement. Annuities can be valuable tools, but they offer some risk in the form of insurer default (the insurance company going out of business). They also leave no legacy to your children. However, they do offer a solid return on investment provided the insurer is a stable company with a long history.

Basic Investing Principles
Bob Davis
You can’t control the stock market, nor can you consistently beat it over a long period of time (as a small-scale investor, anyway). However, there are many strategies you can use to ensure a stable and steady return on the money you save for retirement. One important part of investing is understanding how much risk you can tolerate, which involves how many years you are away from your goal as well as your personal psychology. Rebalancing (and knowing how to rebalance) your portfolio is also vital, especially as you approach retirement age. Costs are also important – if you can keep costs low, you keep more money for retirement in your own pocket.

Investing for Retirement
David Grabiner and Alex Frakt
In order to invest successfully for retirement, you need to have a plan. That involves calculating exactly how much money you’ll need in retirement, determining how much (realistically) you can safely earn each year in your investments, and then using that to figure out how much you need to be saving each year. Just having a plan isn’t enough, though – you need to implement it and then continue to follow through with it. Take the time to actually write out your investment plan in detail – putting it down in writing makes it concrete.

Funding Your Retirement Accounts
David Grabiner and Ian Forsythe
If the first step is to begin saving, where do I begin? Where do I start putting my money if all of these options are available? The first step is to start living within your means – spending less than you earn consistently – and putting your money towards repaying high interest debt. The only retirement savings you should be doing while doing this is in accounts where you receive an employer match. Once that’s done, move some of the money you were using for debt repayment into other plans. Use a Roth IRA if you’re in a low tax bracket – otherwise, use a tax deferred plan like a 401(k). The chapter goes into great detail about additional options as well.

Understanding Social Security
Dick Schreitmueller
Here, Schreitmueller gives a great overview of how Social Security works today in very readable terms – this can be really useful information for people near retirement age now. However, I find this advice is less and less useful the further you are from retirement, simply because I do not believe that Social Security will be a viable option for retirees in thirty years or so. I’m planning for a retirement without Social Security – if it happens to be there, I’ll look at it as icing on the cake.

Withdrawal Strategies
Carol Tomkovich
The amount you withdraw each year from your retirement accounts doesn’t have to be set in stone at all. It can vary greatly depending on your actual needs – they might be more or less than you expect – and whether or not you’ve found a new job or income stream. Many retirees find that, with so much idle time on their hands, they need to find something to do with their time and, for many of them, that means a second career or a new job. Also, some older folks will realize that if they conserve their retirement savings well, they may be able to pass on a legacy to their children and grandchildren – that legacy becomes very important to them.

Early Retirement
Jeff McComas
Everyone follows a different route to retirement. Few people simply walk out the door and into the waiting arms of Social Security on their 65th birthday. Quite a few people retire earlier than that (or at least jump into a second career). There are several tools people can use to handle an earlier-than-usual retirement: penalty-free withdrawals from a Roth IRA (since you can withdraw the balance at any time), self-employed pension programs, sapping your home equity, and so on. Each option has advantages and disadvantages and are worth exploring on their own.

Income Replacement
Lee E. Marshall
What about the unexpected? What if you are injured, acquire a long-term illness, or unexpectedly die? If your current financial state would cause such events to be completely disastrous, you need to look seriously at insurance solutions to protect you and your family against such outcomes. Long-term disability insurance and life insurance are all important to at least consider and evaluate.

Health Insurance
Lee E. Marshall
On the flip side of that coin is care for illnesses from which you may recover (at least partially) after a period, such as cancer. Again, if you can’t afford the costs for such incidences out of pocket (and most of us cannot), you need to evaluate insurance for such situations. Health insurance and long-term care insurance are both worth investigation to keep your family safe and secure.

Essentials of Estate Planning
Robert A. Stermer
Estate planning can be really complicated. Make sure that you, at the very least, know what durable powers of attorney, living wills, wills, and trusts are and which of those you need to have for your financial situation. It is never too early to do this kind of planning – even a simple will can aid the people who survive you in the event of something untimely occurring to you.

Estate and Gift Taxes
Robert A. Stermer
If you leave behind even a moderately-sized amount of money, there’s a good chance that a significant portion of that legacy will be eaten up by transfer taxes and estate taxes. Such taxes are confusing and often unclear to the layperson. If you are planning on leaving behind a significant amount of money to others, it’s well worth your while to study such taxes thoroughly – this chapter really only gives a brief overview of things and helps you identify whether or not you should dig into the topic.

Seeking Help from Professionals
Dale C. Maley and Lauren Vignec
There are many, many finance professionals out there who would love to have your business as you piece through these issues. Of course, muddying the water are individuals who are simply out to line their own pockets by collecting commissions on sub-par investments, as well as others who are quite happy to run up a big pile of fees. The first step is for you to learn as much as you possibly can without a professional so that you know exactly what you do need from a professional. Once you’ve reached that point, you should be able to formulate the exact questions you need answers for, which you can then take to a financial professional of your choosing. The chapter provides an excellent guide for finding one.

Divorce and Other Financial Disasters
David Rankine
Divorce sometimes happens and it can be a real financial burden. One option is to sign a prenuptial agreement to protect both parties and make the divorce process easier (if it happens). Without it, the best route of attack is to simply incorporate the realities of your divorce into your retirement savings – likely, it means that you’ll have to begin saving a larger portion of your income. Another important note from this chapter: most retirement savings are exempt from the claims of creditors, so if creditors are knocking at your door, don’t strip your retirement savings to appease them.

Is The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning Worth Reading?
If you’re of any age and a little worried about your retirement (especially in the light of the 2008 financial mess) and are willing to actually invest the time to learn about what retirement investment means and how it works, The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning is the book for you. It’s thoroughly well-written, has a consistent set of ideas behind it, does a great job of breaking down concepts into understandable pieces, and leads right into sensible action.

Admittedly, I’m partial to the book due to the philosophy. My own investing ideas are very similar to those of the Bogleheads – I believe in buying low cost index funds for pretty much any long term investment purpose. The Bogleheads’ Guide to Retirement Planning goes far beyond that, though, explaining why one would do that and how it works in terms of planning for a successful retirement.

Be aware, though – this book is fairly heavy. It’s quite readable, but it’s not breezy beach reading. It’ll take you some time to read through it. But if you give this book your time and attention for several evenings and think about what’s being said in terms of your own life – and then turn some of the ideas into action – you’ll find yourself in a much better place for retirement.

This may just be the newest addition to my bookshelf.

A couple days ago at the doctor’s office, I picked up the newest issue of Time, which featured a cover story entitled “Why It’s Time to Retire the 401(k)” (and you can read the article online).

The article was filled with lots of stories about individuals close to retirement age who lost a large portion of their retirement savings in the stock market market downturn of 2008, including some who were forced to return to work. The article concluded that the 401(k) system is thus broken, since it’s letting down the people who rely on it.

Here’s the problem, though: 401(k)’s aren’t at fault. Personal responsibility (or a lack thereof) is.

A 401(k) plan is basically just an investment opportunity where employees can put in their money before taxes, then pay income taxes when the money is withdrawn much later in life. While the money is inside the account, account holders have a wide array of investment options. Some of them are very stock heavy and, yes, include a lot of risk; others are more diverse and offer lower risk. The choice of options is left up to the individual investor.

In the end, the investors who suffered a disastrous, life-altering 2008 in their 401(k) accounts were either contributing too little and essentially gambling with it or they didn’t bother to learn or understand how investing works.

A stock fund with a 10% annual return is not a guarantee of a 10% return each year. Minimal reading and investigation into investing reveals this to be true. Thus, if you need that balance to be there for you, you shouldn’t have it in stocks.

Some of the people who are suffering right now were not aware of this fact. They either didn’t bother to investigate their investments further or they simply chose not to think about it at all.

In either case, they chose to invest their future into something that they didn’t fully understand. That’s an incredibly dangerous individual choice.

And, honestly, my sympathy for them is somewhat limited. To build up the large balances that they had in their 401(k)s requires years and years of regular, steady investment – a substantial portion of the financial output of their life’s work. Yet, in many cases, the investors never bothered to truly learn about their investments or make any effort to diversify, using other funds or balancing things out with a conservatively-invested Roth IRA.

There’s a lesson to be learned here. Know where your money is going. Know where your investments are placed. If you can’t afford to take a loss on that money, move the money to something safe, like bonds or treasury notes. If you’re young and have many years until retirement, carefully investigate your options and know that investments in stocks will go up rapidly and down rapidly over and over again with, over the long term, a general upwards trend that will usually beat more conservative choices.

Should special help be given to people who have to re-enter the workforce because their 401(k) didn’t hold up? No. They made the personal choice to expose their investment to a lot of risk when they most needed it. If you argue that they didn’t know, I say that they didn’t bother to educate themselves about the very investment that’s supporting their entire lifestyle – another personal choice.

401(k)s are not the magic answer to retirement problems. They’re a tool, one that requires careful reading of the instruction booklet to use properly. And this time, you need to read the instructions, because if you use this tool wrong, you can cut years of healthy, happy retirement living out of your life.

Marcia writes in:

I’m having a hard time figuring out exactly how much to put away for retirement each week. I’m twenty five years old and most of the advice says to put away 10% of your salary into your 401(k) but I think I should be putting away more. I have three great grandparents that are still alive and over 100 and all of my grandparents are over 70 and still alive. Unless there’s something bad and unexpected I will probably live quite a bit longer than the average person. So should I be putting away more for retirement? How much more?

The best way to answer this question is to roll the clock ahead to age sixty five and ask yourself what you would like to be doing then.

Think about it. When you’re sixty five, do you intend to walk away from your job and settle into a non-employed retirement? Do you want to perhaps seek a different kind of employment, perhaps following a dream of being a writer or a painter or something like that? Do you want to keep doing the job you’re doing until you drop to the floor?

I’ve known the answer to this question all my life. I do not want to be idle in my later years – I’ve always intended to fill them with my writing and that dream is no different now than when I was younger.

Until the final year or two of my life (or when I’m unable), I intend to work and earn some sort of income. What does that mean for my retirement savings? For the later years of my life, my retirement savings will only be a part of my income. I won’t need to withdraw all the money I need to live on from it each year.

Thus, it makes sense for me to not save quite as much purely for retirement and instead invest in long term care and long term disability insurance – these cover the situations in which I’m unable to work.

What does your story look like? Assuming good health, do you intend to keep working productively for as long as you can? If so, then you don’t need to put as much away annually as you might otherwise. On the other hand, you might want to enjoy a long retirement period that doesn’t involve working for an income. If that’s the case, then you should scale up.

Here’s the truth: most retirement planning advice out there assumes that you’ll retire at sixty five and then live without an income for at most another twenty years. In many cases, neither one of those assumptions are true. I certainly don’t want to be completely idle for the last twenty years of my life and I’d love to be able to see my great-grandchildren born – I got to know one of my own great-grandparents very well, in fact.

Instead, I think retirement planning should involve assuming you’ll live as long as possible. I’d take the age of your ancestor that lived the longest and tack on five years. Then, I’d ask myself how many of those years I wanted to spend without earning money – or with earning only some of the money I needed for retirement. Do you want a long “retirement” period or not? Some do, some don’t.

From there, you’ll start getting an idea of how many years you want to cover. Start playing with retirement calculators using these assumptions and see what you come up with. After all, if you think you’ll live to 95 and intend to work until you’re 80, you have fifty five years to save for retirement, thus you don’t need to scale up at all. On the other hand, if you think you’ll live to 95 and intend to retire at 65, you’re almost assuredly going to have to put more away for retirement.

Remember, focus on what makes you happy. If there’s an endeavor that earns a good income that you would be happy spending the rest of your life doing, then spend the rest of your life doing it!

One final caveat: long term care and long term disability insurance are both worth considering. Mostly, they’re hedges against something devastating happening in your life. They ensure that if something does happen that prevents you from working in a productive way, you won’t be a financial burden to those around you. They should at least be considered as part of any long term financial planning.

I am absolutely honored to feature a guest post today by Vicki Robin, someone who I’ve had the privilege to get to know a little over the last year or so. Vicki is co-author of Your Money or Your Life, one of the books that changed my life. Currently, Vicki is teaching tele-classes about money and life as well as speaking, writing and consulting.

Financial independence – ahhh, what a dream! Doing as you please, not as you must. Having all the money you need without needing a job. Travel. Adventure. Relaxation. Time to write that book you’ve been thinking about for years.

Well, I’ve been there and done that since I was 25 years old. I’ve had an adventuresome life. I’ve worked for love, not money. I’ve slept late when my body needed it and worked late into the night when the juices were flowing. And I’ve written a book (actually two, one published) which lays out how anyone can have what I have – without risky business ventures or shady deals or being born into the right family. The book, of course, is Your Money or Your Life, which presents a step by step approach to the process of earning, spending, saving, giving and investing with a focus on having enough for life, not “it all” or “more and more.”

We just updated it and, thanks to The Simple Dollar among other frugality sites, we were able to focus on the core strategy and let go of being the go-to people for how to save money on specific purchases.

I’d like to unpack this notion of “financial independence,” though, so we can see it not simply as being filthy rich with a mega portfolio but rather as having a diversity of ways to assure your needs will be met with minimal if any paid employment. It’s a combination of passive income, occasional income, frugality (increasing your unnecessary income) and reciprocity (freely sharing stuff, services and skills with others).

First, you need to understand Financial Independence as having what YOU need to support a life you love. Not what the Wall Street Journal or People Magazine say is rich, not what your financial adviser says you must have, but what you determine is enough by observing and refining your spending patterns until you neither squander nor hoard money. You come up with “your number” – the monthly income needed to have all you want and need but nothing in excess. This is your “enough point”. If FI means having everything the rich people do, you’ll never get there. But if it means having enough income from sources other than work to cover your expenses, we can all achieve through investing time, intention and focus.

Second, you need to take seriously the old saw of penny saved is a penny earned. Let’s say that through comparative shopping you can get your car or refrigerator for 25-40% off retail price (I have done just that. My car was $16000 rather than $22,000, my fridge $750 rather than $1200). Should such savings generalize to all your spending, then your “enough point” might be $40,000 a year instead of $50,000. That’s phantom income – you still have a $50,000 a year lifestyle, but $10,000 of it comes from sheer frugality.

Third, you need to only buy things that only money can buy. For example, there are several ways to get food on your table. You can buy it. You can grow it. You can forage (like picking blackberries by the roadside). There are also several ways to satisfy a gnawing hunger. One is eating. One is having a glass of water since most of us drink far too little each day. Another is to ask before eating: What am I really hungry for? It may be peanuts or it may be the oil in peanuts or the crunch of peanuts or writing in your journal about how mad you are at so and so. Sometimes we consume something material when the need is emotional or spiritual. There are several ways to read the books we like: buying them new, buying them used, borrowing from friends, borrowing from the library. Likewise, there are several ways to look terrific at a wedding. One is to buy a new dress. One is borrow a dress from a friend. One is to shop your closet and wear last year’s new dress because you still look great in it. Being resourceful is a great income stream because some things you need come into your life without spending dollars. Substituting creativity and awareness for knee jerk spending might save you another $5000 a year!

Fourth, you need to only pay others to do what you really can’t or won’t do for yourself. Every competency is an income stream because you don’t have to pay others to handle it – and plumbers and electricians and mechanics are mighty expensive. You don’t have to do everything yourself, but you can pick one task of daily life to do yourself and this further reduces the amount of income you need to be FI.

Fifth, you need to find ways to share resources with other people. There truly could be one lawnmower or extension ladder per city block if people could work out a trading system. You can rely on pure neighborliness, or you could set up a neighborhood listserve where offers and asks are posted or, if you’re lucky, your community might have a more elaborate alternative currency system. Even without such a system, though, we’re awash in other currencies. Discount coupons can be substituted for dollars so they are a means of exchange. Air-miles are also a currency. IOUs are also currency – that slip of paper could change many hands before it comes back to you for final payment.

Sixth is to turn things you do for love into things you do for money – without stress. Sell birdhouses if you love making birdhouses. Sell flowers if you love growing flowers. Do fundraising part-time if you’ve become a great fundraiser through serving on many boards. Baby-sit if you love kids and one more running around your house is no problem.

Finally, you do need to invest in financial instruments that give you a return on investment – the classic form of financial independence. You might own bonds or stocks or mutual funds or real estate.

My financial independence is based on all these “income streams”. I do have a small but steady fixed income from several sources: bonds, a rental house I own and soon Social Security. I do have a little side income from selling a few hours a month of my expertise (conducting tele-classes, facilitation, coaching, meeting planning, running workshops). I am frugal to a fault and if I were to tally up how much under retail I pay for all my purchases I’d likely find I live on half what others do for the same set of things. Having lived with other people for most of my adult life I know how to share, which means I know how to negotiate, to ask for what I need and take no for an answer, to be direct and not underhanded, to return things in better shape than I found them, to understand where I can be generous and when I just can’t give an inch.

In these tough financial times, which may last far into the future and become the new norm, the smart money is on people who know how to manage these multiple streams of income so that their core well being does not depend on any one of them. This is truly diversifying your “portfolio” for financial security.